Down in the valley, the valley so low

June 17, 2022

Pennsylvania bike day

I was so surprised when I looked out the window this morning and saw fog so thick that I couldn't see the trailers behind us, let alone the farms in the valley. Luckily it had totally burned off by the time we left for our ride at 9.

It was much warmer and very muggy today but there was a west wind that helped cool us off. Don had mapped out a route that would take us to a covered bridge and then the Lapp Farm/Creamery where we could have some of their ice cream. Supposedly it was supposed to be only 20 miles so we'll see how that goes!

From the campground we dropped downhill into the valley where we turned west onto a smaller road. It had a "Road Closed" sign posted at the start but we wanted to see what was actually causing the closure since we can often get through these areas on our bike.

Unfortunately they were working on replacing the bridge and we couldn't get around the construction. That was a shame as it would have taken us to our next turn without getting onto Highway 340 which was a lot busier. Oh well, there was a moderate shoulder and buggies also travel on 340, so we figured it wouldn't be too bad.

We rode a few miles on this highway and then turned off onto a much quieter country road that took us by many farms and fields of corn, wheat and soy beans. Even tobacco, which was a surprise crop for us.

Lancaster county is the top 10 in tobacco production with most of the crop used in cigarettes or chewing tobacco. Another interesting fact I read was that some groups of Amish men smoke cigars or chew tobacco. I thought they would have aschewed this practice.

Tobacco has been grown by the Amish and Mennoites for generations, although the total acreage has dropped over the years as many have turned their focus to dairy farming. It's a crop that requires lots of labor with Amish families doing the work of growing and harvesting of the fields. But many Amish children are now turning their backs on farming and moving to different types of businesses like constructing gazebos etc.

Several more turns took us to our first stop at the Eshleman's Mill covered bridge. It's also called the Leaman's Place covered bridge. It is a single span, wooden bridge with double Burr arch trusses that was built in 1845 and rebuilt in 1893.

Lancaster county has quite a few covered bridges and this was the closest one we could reach on the bike. After taking a few pictures we walked up the steep incline on the other side of the creek. (why is it that these bridges are always at the bottoms of hills?!)

We continued through the countryside where Don had to swerve us around many piles of fresh poop. There were several Amish tour wagons filled with tourists on our route. The rest of our group took a scooter tour today but we opted to stick with the bike ride.

After a couple of miles we returned to Highway 340 and we turned east into the village of Intercourse. This small community was started in 1754 and originally named Cross Keys. In 1814, it was changed to Intercourse. There are many theories why it was called this highly suggestive name so I did a little research.

It may have been called that as its location is at the intersection of 2 main roads or possibly it was because back in the day, the term was commonly used to describe the fellowship and social intereaction shared by the community of faith. Whatever the reason, it's certainly an unusual name!

A short while later we made another turn following the signs to the Lapp Farm.

We'd been hearing rave reviews from everyone about their wonderful hand made ice cream. We selected a couple of different types in a bowl and shared the treat. It's been years since we enjoyed ice cream made at a farm and it was nice just sitting in the shade.

While we were getting back on the bike, a woman drove up and stopped to talk to us. She'd recognized our Ortleib pannier, and said that she and her husband rode the Southern Tier in 2020. I guess they had quite the experience touring during the height of the pandemic.

We talked for quite a while about touring and biking in general. They are also Warm Shower hosts in this area. She was all set to host us and was disappointed to hear that we already have what we need in the trailer. Oh well, another time. It was a nice, unexpected encounter and at least she confirmed the route we would take to the KOA.

Back on the bike, we now climbed up onto a ridge high above the campground. There were some hills that we had to walk but overall the climbing today was more moderate at about 1000 ft.

By 1 we were back home glad to be done with the ride. It was very hot out and it was nice to finally sit in the shade with a cold drink. The scooter group came back later in the afternoon looking sunburned and complaining about the heat.

We spent the rest of the afternoon visiting with our neighbors then joined everyone at happy hour. Dinner tonight was sausage sandwiches with sides that had come from a local Amish sausage company/meat market. I had a chicken sausage without the bread and it was very good. I told Don we should go to their store to buy some to bring with us.

It was a beautiful evening once the sun had dipped lower in the sky and we enjoyed listening to 2 guys talking about restoring their vintage Airstreams. There are several older trailers here at the rally - some from the 1960's. They're nice looking but way too small for us. We'll stick to the newer ones!

I was tired from the ride and heat, so I went to bed early while Don stayed up late talking with everyone. It looks like the temperatures will be dropping into the 70's over the weekend which will be much nicer than the 90's. Although I think we're done with rides as we have other plans to fill up the last couple of days here.

We'd hoped to get through this construction but that wasn't possible.

Somehow that forklift truck doesn't fit with the horse drawn cart! Maybe they're Mennonite.

Notice that the woman on the left has no bonnet. The one on the right is riding a scooter. We've seen more of these being ridden by women and men rather than bicycles.

Some Amish kids out working in the cabbage field.

We've seen this sign at a number of different farms.

We've seen this strange tape on maple trees at many homes. Don thought it might be used to protect the bore spot in the trunk where they drilled for maple syrup?

Of course, many covered bridges seem to be located at the bottoms of hills!

The Amish and Mennoite women had some lovely gardens by their homes.

Our yummy break spot today was at the Lapp Farm Creamery.

They make their ice cream from Jersey cows rather than Holstiens. That's probably why it was so creamy.

One of the common scooters we've seen here. I noticed a farmer use one out in his field. But they sure look like a lot of work to move down the road!

Today's ride: 20 miles (32 km)
Total: 437 miles (703 km)

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