Christmas in Lviv: Part One: You're a bit old for a children's Christmas party aren't you?

December 21, 2013

The reason why I was so excited to get to Lviv was because I was going to be reunited with Hanna, who I had met a couple of months earlier during my brief visit to her home country of Belarus and together we had enjoyed our very own 'Before Sunrise' moment. For those of you who haven't seen this film, watch it, you'll understand the reference. For those of you who have seen it, and who have also seen the sequel 'Before Sunset' you'll know that the sequel was a big mistake. But real life isn't a movie is it? Hanna, by the way, is played by Kirsten Dunst.

This is Hanna, getting annoyed with a flag

I was really excited to see Hanna again but as I was on my way to meet her in the city centre I stopped at a shop to buy some potatoes. This was as a joke, because we both agreed that potatoes could save the world (there isn't time to explain how just here, but trust us on this.) As I locked the bike up a young couple said hello and started talking with me. The guy, who we shall call Andriy, for that is his name, was incredibly happy to meet me and I was touched by his enthusiasm. I told him that I was in a rush to buy potatoes but would be in town for a few days and would love to meet up. We went into the shop together and Andriy was quite insistant that he would buy the potatoes for me. He also bought me oranges and chocolate. He was so nice.

Because I only had a two day visa for Belarus when I visited, Hanna and I had previously only spent fifteen hours in one another's company and so it felt like the logical next step was for us to move into an apartment together. The one we had found was very close to the centre of Lviv and was really incredibly nice for a very reasonable price. It was very spacious with a large bedroom and well-equipped kitchen and had a modern interior. I was quite sure it was perfect and was saying as much to Hanna when I looked up from the bed and saw this on the wall:

After getting over the shock of the painting and spending quite a lot of time trying, without success, to remove it from the wall, we spent the next couple of days becoming reaquainted with one another and exploring the city. On the first evening Hanna wanted to go to a children's Christmas party which was being organised by a friend of hers.

"You're a bit old for a children's Christmas party aren't you?" I said, but it turns out she just wanted to go to help her friend out, not to sit on Santa's knee. It was seven kilometres away and Hanna took the bus because she had no bike, and I cycled. I got pretty lost and had to check my map three or four times, and walked on the pavement when the road was too busy, and so I only beat her by fifteen minutes. When she finally arrived we went up to the room where the party was going to be, which was in a shopping mall. There wasn't actually anything that needed doing and I sat there feeling rather silly and realised that I really had no business being at a children's Christmas party. There was no sign of Santa who I assume was still recovering in hospital after his recent suicide attempt in Slovakia. As I was wearing red and had a bit of a beard Hanna suggested that I could step into the role but due to language difficulties nobody else supported this absurd notion and I preferred to sit quietly outside. When Hanna was given a video camera and asked to go off and film everything I decided I better go home and get the dinner ready before I got arrested.

I didn't feel comfortable taking pictures of the party, so here is what was on the wall of the mall directly next to the entrance to the children's Christmas party. Appropriate

Over the course of the next few days we explored Lviv. It is a really pretty city and has been completely unaffected by the protests taking place in Kiev and elsewhere in the country. This is because the city is already very pro-Europe and there really wouldn't be much point in anyone protesting to a city that already has the EU flag flying over city hall. As I learned, the protests taking place in Kiev are generally peaceful and unlikely to make very much immediate difference. The country is split between the pro-Europe west and the pro-Russia east and will probably be that way for a long time to come. Ukraine is, like many places, restricted by a political system that favours the wealthy few (the so-called Oligarchs) at the expense of the many. It seems nothing is likely to change until the next election in a couple of years and quite likely not for a long time after that. What does seem apparant to me is that the young people believe their future lies with the European Union and there is a real desire, especially here in the west, to cut the apron strings from Mother Russia.

There were lots of markets and street stalls everywhere

This is a statue of the most famous Ukranian - the poet Shevchenko. Although he isn't that famous, I've only heard of him because he played for Chelsea.

Lots of packed trams and buses. Spot the guy who saw me and waved

This was at the top of a cool building - we tried to throw coins, it is good luck if you get it in the hat or it lands on the chimney. It was almost bad luck for the people on the patio below when my throw went astray

The view from the roof, you can see the hill we climbed

Also on the roof of the building, a flying car. How did it get up here? It flew here, obviously!

Two of the people who gave me this impression were Anna and Ilya who we met at the top of a big hill overlooking the city. Because I had been unable to get a country sign picture on entering Ukraine, I decided that a picture with a flag would do. On the top of this hill the Ukraine flag was flying proudly beside the EU flag and so Hanna asked Illia and Anna if they could help me to get the picture. This is the very satisfactory result:

Illia and Anna were really nice and so the next evening we invited them to have dinner with us as well as Andriy and his girlfriend (also called Anna) in our apartment. It was a really super lovely evening and a good time was had by all. It was the night of December 24th and this was turning out to be a most wonderful Christmas time.

Anna, Illia, myself, Anna, Anna, Hanna, Andriy, me and Anna

Today's ride: 21 km (13 miles)
Total: 11,194 km (6,951 miles)

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