January 1, 2000
Day 71 Pehoe: sandpaper wind
Camping
After last night's party we sleep in a bit and ponder what we want to do today.
There is another short hike we are interested in making, but to get to the trailhead at Refugio Pudete would cost us 2 x $6000 with hosteria's shuttle. So, we finally decide to just pack up and ride there. Once there we have the option between staying at the Refugio or going on to a campground on Lago Pehoe.
The first 7 kms back to Anengual are a bit muddy after all the rain yesterday, but we get some good view of the Torres. Today is a lot better, with rain this morning but the clouds are clearing.
From the entry at Anengual we start a long steep climb to a ridge that follows and parallels the Paine massif. As we continue West we start to get some of the views from our guidebook.
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There are lots of guanacos that are quite tame, they keep a safe distance but then curiously observe us the way we observe them.
After another 20km riding, we think we are almost there, the wind picks up, not gradually but with a force trying to knock us off our bikes. Gravel on the road gets blown up and sandblasts us. We struggle for a while, walking trying to keep the bikes upright and then we seek shelter in a ditch behind our bikes, the sand hitting us hurts. Where are those pickups when you need them? Just when we get going again, Rachel sees one out the corner of her eye, throws up a thumb and the driver slows down then stops on the road. We are offered a ride to the campground only a few kms away.
Together with the passenger, Patrick loads up the bikes on the bed of the full sized Chevy. We pile in behind them and off we go to the campground where they are also camped. The wind howls, sitting in the back of the pick up we get some amazing views of the mountains.
At the campground we take our own site, a bit expensive at $10 but the best views in the park. We see Joan and Craig, the Australians from El Chalten and Chonchi. They are now traveling on an overland truck.
We have hot showers and Patrick spent quite a bit of time on a bluff at the lake, hidden behind a thorny bush, waiting for the perfect light on the mountains.
Today's ride: 27 km (17 miles)
Total: 2,829 km (1,757 miles)
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