December 15, 1999
Day 54 Past Baja Caracoles: Rio Olnie Hotel
Our schedule is no longer determined by time, but by the wind.
It's light very early and easy to wake up early...and listen for the wind. The morning is calm, quiet, we are up at 5am and going early. We also have seen this part of the road and know of a few hills.
The ride is easy...without the wind. So still and silent, only a few birds can be heard.
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Then closer to noon and we are almost to Baja Caracole's, the wind is getting stronger. We barely can push to the Hotel, where we escape the sound and feel of a strong wind. We enjoy a cappuccino. There are a few supplies we buy, butter and cokes. If we had run out of food, there would have been something for us, Pasta & sauce, jellys, cookies and soups.
While enjoying the hot cup of coffee, the Swiss driving the camper from Alaska to Patagonia pulls in. We first met him on the Carretera Austral and again in Coyhaique.
As we fill our water bottles and coke bottles, Patrick asks the Swiss to drop the coke bottles at the Hotel Rio Olnie. He agrees, and this will save us having to filter water from the River Olnie.
We ride into the strong crosswind, Rachel can barely control her bike, being pushed from the road track into loose gravel. The Swiss stops and asks if she wanted a ride, the wind is so strong. It was tempting.
Then the road shifts and for 10kms a tailwind!!
We even consider maybe going further than Rio Olnie. Then the road shifts again, the wind becomes stronger. We reach the river and Patrick washes his legs.
Then the road curves, only 2 kms to the Hotel but the wind is so strong we can only push the bikes and at times taking all our strength not to be pushed over sideways. As we walk, Patrick drafts from the wind. An hour later we reach the hotel. Patrick rides ahead to check things out.
The water bottles were lined up by the door. On the second bottle, the Swiss had taped a bag of peanuts. What a treat! We share a can of coke and eat the peanuts.
There is a little room we had been told cyclists stay inside in bad weather. It's not very inviting. Instead, we find a fairly sheltered corner outside to pitch the tent. The wind whips dust around into everything. We eat a cold meal inside the tent and then fall asleep still listening to the wind.
Today's ride: 43 km (27 miles)
Total: 2,366 km (1,469 miles)
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