December 9, 1999
Day 48 Rest Day in Coyhaique
We sleep in a little bit.
Yesterday we decided not to go to the San Rafael glacier today. For $150 pp a small plane flies you there, an hour and half bumpy ride and a good aerial view of the laguna full of mini icebergs and the glacier and icefield.
But since the CONAF (park rangers) strike there is no boat ride along the foot of the glacier. This would be spectacular and worth the extra $50 though without this, just seeing the glacier from the air and a viewpoint isn't worth the money.
So we have breakfast and walk back to the road where we quickly catch a lift back to town. First we go to the Entell office and spend an hour online, reading and replying to our email messages.
We eat lunch at a fast food place--Patrick a hot dog, Rachel a hamburger. We walk through the small artisan area. We see the Swiss from the camper van that passed us twice on the Carretera Austral, at a sidewalk cafe. We find the tourist office and get a ferry schedule. There will be no ferry on Suday from Ibanez to Chile Chico.
So the decision needs to be made whether to push on tomorrow and reach the Saturday ferry or take an extra rest day here. It's 125km to Puerto Ibanez. We take a taxi back to the hostel. The price depends on whether he takes us to the top of the hill to the hostel or just at the bottom. We say the bottom is fine for 1000pesos.
We really hate "losing" another day waiting for a ferry and decide to leave tomorrow and get past the junction to Puerto Ibanez. It will be 100kms and a long day. But the next day will be within 25kms and we can catch the 10am ferry. With this decision we also need to return to town to get supplies. Again we hitch a ride into town, pick up the supplies we need and a stop at the internet cafe. Rachel had tried earlier to send emails unsuccessfully. It is now 845pm, a woman is "surfing" and we are second in line for the computer. Finally at 9:30pm we have the computer and quickly send email messages. The place closes at 10pm and another person is waiting.
We take a taxi back to the hostel.
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