November 24, 1999
Day 33 Ancud: Ferry to Isla Chiloe
Camping Arena Gruesa
We leave after breakfast at about 8am. Instead of going north out of town to pick up Ruta 5 (and up a big hill), we ride to Angelmo and continue following the coast. We don't escape the hills this way though, there are a couple of nasties that require walking. It sure is a lot nicer with less traffic and better scenery.
At about 18km from Puerto Montt we rejoin Ruta 5 and it's another 40km to Pargua, mostly flat, monotonous landscape. Yesterday from the frame of a bus window, we saw most of this in the rain. Today is better with mostly clouds but some sun too.
In Pargua, we need to take the ferry to Isla Chiloe. There are many small roll-on and roll-off ships plowing across the narrow channel. We are lucky enough to arrive just in time to squeeze on a departing boat. We see dolphins and seals in the water.
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Upon arrival in Chacao we have lunch in the city park and take some pictures of the typical church built in the 17th century. The road to Ancud is hilly. Some nasty grades force us to walk. Traffic is light and very considerate of us cyclists.
Arriving in Ancud requires climbing another hill and then another one to the campground. We know the name of the one we want to go to (from the travel guidebook). During the climb we are passed by the owner, he tries to get Rachel to load her bike in his pick-up, but she would rather push it uphill. He is appalled. And he is concerned we might stop at some other campground on the way to his.
A good thing that we don't, for we get a beautiful site with tables, cooking shelter and a view over the bay on Volcan Osorno. Later we walk back to town to buy groceries and check out the fishing wharf. We cook noodles for dinner, a meal Patrick has carried since San Martin de los Andes.
Today's ride: 97 km (60 miles)
Total: 1,462 km (908 miles)
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