March 19, 2000
Day 149 Free camping past Ticatica
There was supposed to be breakfast available at the hotel, but when we get up at seven only the kids are around. We guess the adults went to church. We eat some cereal and carefully roll our loaded bikes down the steep front door steps. The kids help. Then we leave Pulacayo via a slightly longer route than we came in on yesterday, but avoiding all those steps. The road drops deeper into a valley and follows the river for a while, before climbing on a ridge. We cycle for hours without seeing traffic or people. When the ridge peters out, we rejoin the river, cross a few wide sandy streambeds and gradually climb higher along another river. We have some good views of tall mountains in the distance.
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About 30 km’s before Ticatica we come upon a broken-down bus. It looks like the vehicle's right rear wheel has broken off. A few backpackers tell us they’ve been here since two this morning and another, probably full bus isn’t expected until later this afternoon. We share some water and cookies.
In Ticatica, we replenish our water supply and drink some pop. It’s early afternoon and we want to go on a bit further, and camp on the big hill past town. Climbing out of the valley, we have great views of the town surrounded by cornfields. A very pretty view. The road switch-backs up for a while, then begins a long straight shot for some houses just below a saddle. We have to walk some but can cycle most.
At the houses the road switchback again and then, surprisingly, drops behind another hill for a long traverse to another saddle. Halfway along there is a rocky outcropping that looks suitable for camping. Although it isn’t totally hidden from the road, but there is hardly any traffic, and we will wait pitching the tent until after dark.
We try to fix a hot meal but the stove acts up again and refuses to burn properly. Patrick curses it, and we settle for bread with egg salad. An icy cold wind picks up. We are at about 3700 meters and the temperature drops quickly as the sun goes down. A quick sponge bath, pitch the tent and in the sleeping bag, we are ice and cozy.
Today's ride: 66 km (41 miles)
Total: 4,822 km (2,994 miles)
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