March 11, 2000
Day 141 Atocha: taking a ride
It started to rain last night and it kept going all night. When we get up at about eight, it has slowed down to a sprinkle, we think all that water must have deteriorated the dirt roads badly. Tanya and Suzy set out at about nine, headed south towards Tarija. We fuss and doubt for a while longer and finally because the other cyclists left, we feel we should go too. So we go.
The first km, getting out of town is the hardest. Traffic has torn the muddy roads up, our bikes and legs get splashed with brown-red mud. Just out of town is a police checkpoint and the road splits. Actually, the road continues to Potosi, the split towards Atocha is just a dry riverbed most of the time. We start climbing up a narrow side canyon of the Tupiza river. This is hard work at times, steep or loose sand. After we crest a saddle the road follows another tributary back to the Tupiza river. The scenery is awesome; red rocks, cactus, strange rock formations on the horizon, and an occasional village along the fertile valley. The road leaves the river frequently to climb side valleys, but we only gradually gain elevation because we keep dropping down to the river.
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Just before Salo, about 30 km from Tupiza, the road disappears, truck tracks show that the river is now also the road. Its hard work pushing through the mud and crossing waterways several times. Just before Salo a small truck passes us. As we reach town they have stopped for food and offer us a ride. It sounds like the road will do some serious climbing from here. Patrick asks the cost and doesn't get a real answer, but the guy seems reasonable. So load up the bikes and get in the truck bed. A Bolivian guy is already there. Off we go, and its all uphill for the first 20 km. We get to above 4000 meters with great views back into the valley. Condors circle overhead.
We seem to climb forever, every time there is another hill on the horizon over which the road snakes up. Then a descent to a river, and up again. We see a few isolated villages amidst barren red mountains. The road is bad and washed out in several places. A large thunderstorm has been looming in the south west and finally catches up with us. We seek cover under a thick blue tarp while rain and hail pelts the open truck bed.
It is starting to get dark and cold all of a sudden. Atocha seems a long ways away, while we huddle under the tarp on a bouncing truck bed. It’s pitch dark when we finally see the town, a blanket of lights against a mountain side. The road abruptly ends at a river, the town seemingly unreachable on the other side. We follow the muddy river bed, there is no more road, and then charge across, obviously in a do or die attempt to reach our destination.
We make it across and find a paved street leading to a brightly lit square. The truck stops at the market, we pay the driver 30 Bolivianos ($5) and load up the bikes. At the square is a residencial where we find a small room. After carrying our gear up, we go and find a restaurant. Not much choice in Atocha but find french-fries and chicken.
Today's ride: 28 km (17 miles)
Total: 4,633 km (2,877 miles)
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