March 2, 2000
Day 132 Purmamarca: gaining altitude and a local corn festival
We get up a little after 7am. Last night it rained, this morning is still overcast but it's dry. We hang our panniers back on the racks, load the waterproof bags and eat breakfast of cornflakes.
One more time we exit the long hallway covered with blue and white tile like a scene from "back to the future." We leave town on a long one-way street that parallels the Rio Grande valley. Eventually, it becomes two way and merges with the by pass of Route 9. There is very little traffic on it and people seem to drive more sensible here. The clouds hand low in the valley, it is very humid but cool.
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
The road climbs gradually, from Jujuy at 1250 meters, we will have to ascend to almost 4000meters to the Bolivian border. We ride through a few small towns, see adobe buildings. At first the valley sides are covered with lush tropical vegetation and trees, but as we climb higher that suddenly makes way for more baren hills with grasses.
The road is washed away in some sections. Once crossing a huge flood plain covered with rocks. The railroad that follows the valley is beyond repair. In some locations the bridges that once supported it are washed away, the rails and sleepers span like a suspension bridge. Other sections have the rails barely visible under drifted sand.
Just before Tumbaja, the Quebrada de Humahuaca appear just like from the postcards. Barren hills in all colors covered with large cactus and grasses. Local farmers have built small adobe house in shallow valleys. We have gained an altitude gradually, except for a short steep section when we gain 200 meters.
At 60km from Jujuy is a turnoff to Purmamarca, a small scenic town about 4 km off the Route 9. A road crosses the Andes here to Chile. We are at about 2200 meters elevation at the intersection. The town is another 150 meters higher. At the entrance to the village are two old Indian women selling small souvenirs. We buy some just so we can take their pictures.
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
We find the campground in a young orchard. The neighbor's house is filled with cosmos. We set up camp and get cleaned up. At 3pm a local festival starts; we hear the local band play. We walk toward the city center, through narrow, dusty streets lined with adobe house and walls.
Around the city square are tables of artisan wares and a few shops, very colorful linens and bags. We eat a couple of empanadas, Patrick explores the 17h century Adobe church and the band that plays only one tune marches off down the street and around the corner.
We explore more of the side streets and eventually make our way to the hill where the festival is, by following the sound of the band. On the hillside is a monument with corn stalks. People take turns pouring water, wine, and beer at the base as an offering. Usually, the beer is poured after the person takes a swig or two. A dozen or so people are chanting and a drumbeats as they move around the circle. The children have cans of foam and delight in spraying people.
We leave and climb a nearby hill to view the valley and the mountains "with seven colors". Eventually we hear the band start playing again.
We return to our camping site, fix spaghetti, and the band played on.
Today's ride: 71 km (44 miles)
Total: 4,279 km (2,657 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 1 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |