September 7, 2024
Day 68: Jekabpils to Pilskane
Pavement Turns to Dirt
We noticed yesterday looking at streetview on Googlemaps that some of our route might be unpaved today. Problem is that our routing app RidewithGPS also shows some dirt, but in places where Google shows pavement…. In short, we might get some dirt, but where and for what distance is unknown.
After we have our standard cereal breakfast and a cup of instant cappuccino we fill up our water bottles and roll the bikes out the hotel. Traffic is very light on a Saturday morning, we pass through the center of town, through two round-about’s and just like that we are back in the forest. This time, on a very quiet road though, as we follow the Daugava River on our left and forest or farmland on our right.
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After roughly twenty kilometers we stop to have some pastries, then another ten kilometers where we stop at a small grocery store. It is the old-fashioned style store where all goods are on wall shelves behind the counter and the clerk grabs for you what you want. There is a coffee maker and we want coffee!
After the caffeine we have about ten more kilometers of asphalt, then the dreaded sign showing asphalt ending. There is a pretty nice little park with a monument to commemorate the people that floated log rafts down the river, we stop and have our first lunch.
The next 21 kilometers are rough. Fortunately there is not much traffic, and most cars slow down to minimize dust, but still it is very dry and the dust clouds can be seen from a couple of miles away. One logging truck blasts by us completely enveloping us in dust.
The last 11 km into Ilukste are tough, on a plateau into the wind. At least we end with a small downhill into town. We shop at the grocery store, enjoy a deserved ice-cream, then cycle about 3 km to the small town we are staying tonight.
When we discovered this place on Booking.com we knew we had to stay here. The place stood out because of the very low price of accommodation: only $20 for a room. But that was only the bait: after looking at the reviews it became clear this is one of those unique places you should not miss.
When we arrived we asked about the symbols, the grandson explained pagan symbols and he had painted these in the garden.
The guesthouse is located in the old administration building of a Soviet Kolchoz (communal farm). The lady that runs it was born in 1942 and remembers her father, who used to own the land, being sent to Siberia for that offense.
The building is cleaned-up and painted nicely, and the bedroom has a good bed, but the rooms are basic. There is a shared bathroom and a small kitchen we can use. The bikes are locked-up in a small concrete “bunker” in the backyard with a steel reinforced door and a huge padlock.
The lady shows us around, with the help of her grandson who translates. A couple of hours later they return to show us the museum upstairs.
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Today's ride: 81 km (50 miles)
Total: 3,460 km (2,149 miles)
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2 months ago