August 29, 2024
Day 59: Padise to Haapsalu
Georgian Coffee and Nepali Dinner
"Ah, we even get earplugs," Patrick says as we check into the room for the night. Then continues, "that can't be a good sign." We will see if they will be needed.
Patrick finds a backroad out of the camp. It’s been recently chip sealed but ok for us to ride. Initially we had planned to go south first on a minor road that is party unpaved, then turn west on what looks to be a rails-to-trails type path along the main highway from Tallinn. After doing some of the gravel roads yesterday we have changed our mind: they are pretty rough.
Also, if the path is too rough for us our only other option would be the busy main road. So we backtrack to Padise and take the road we came in on yesterday. It turns out to be a good choice: traffic is very light and most of the time there is a wide enough shoulder to cycle on.
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Our road is relatively flat and long stretches lined with trees. Today the wind will be the factor. The scenery doesn’t change much so this is also a low picture count day as well as a one or two gear type of day with little shifting. The road does not pass through towns, we have to make do without coffee this morning.
At a bus stall food break we see a cyclist come our way, he continues on with a wave. He is riding an old bike with one pannier and a backpack and a straw hat. When we start riding, we see he has stopped at the next bus pull out so we stop to talk. He’s Finnish and out for a ride on the Eurovelo.
We also see many military trucks today. Patrick identifies the DAF Dutch trucks, both the 4-ton version and the larger 10-ton ammo carriers. Others are Swedish Volvo trucks. A convoy passes with large crates under tarps.
Finally we pass through a town, there is a coop grocery but it’s pretty lean in options. A Danish cyclist has also stopped. He has ridden the Eurovelo 1 route from Denmark to the Northcape, then to Kirkenes in the far east, down along the Finnish / Russian border and now on the Eurovelo 13 back to Denmark.
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When we reach the junction to the main road we pick up a bikepath. Along it is a restaurant we stop for coffee. When looking at the menu we notice the Georgian Flag. Patrick asks the man making the coffee if he is Georgian and he says yes. We order along with the coffee some fried dumplings that taste great. The bike path continues and at the turn to the main street to Haapsalu and we shop for supplies.
We arrive at the Herman Haus early. The room isn’t ready so we order beers and share a chicken wrap sandwich. After checking-in we take a stroll through the town and along the promenade. There are the remains of a medieval castle and many restaurants and bars. This town must really be hopping in the high season. Our room is very nice, but above the bar/restaurant. The room comes with earplugs, but with the window closed we can barely hear the music.
For dinner we walk to a Nepali/Asian restaurant for a nice dinner. On the way back at our hotel we have some more of that good local beer and share a huge “upside down Pavlova” desert. Very nice!
Today's ride: 58 km (36 miles)
Total: 2,840 km (1,764 miles)
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