August 22, 2024
Day 52: Kayramo to Rovaniemi
Happy 74th Birthday to Rachel
“Happy Birthday Rachel!” Patrick says and repeats throughout the day whenever we stop. Rachel reflects on how lucky and privileged to have another birthday on a cycling tour.
We are a bit surprised at check-in yesterday when we are told breakfast is included with our room. After the not so great dinner experience last night, we were not sure whether it would be worth waiting until eight o’clock for, but what the heck. It was very good! There is a pancake with jam, omelet, toast, cheese and ham. Coffee and juice as well. A meal fit for a birthday!
Our bikes already packed, we head out after stuffing ourselves on the breakfast feast. We are expecting similar headwinds as yesterday, but the road turns more to the southwest after about 40 kilometers so we hope to get more of a crosswind for the final part. The hills are a little steeper today, but it seems we get a little more protection from the wind and we make good time. Of course the two cups of good coffee might also be helping. We don’t make it all the way to the next café on our breakfast, but reinforced by a roadside stop for some pastries and an orange we get to where the road turns in our favor and find another cup of coffee.
Then another 18 kilometers to the circus that has sprung up on the Arctic Circle. When Patrick was here 33 years ago there was a nice sign by the roadside and maybe a few shops. Now it is a whole town with Santa, a shopping mall, restaurants and hotels. We do find a couple of spots fit for a trophy photo and Patrick finds the Puukko knife store. Guess what, the model he had finally decided on is not in stock here. They do have 12 knives at the downtown store so that’s where we head next.
The road up to the Arctic Circle Village was not very nice to ride on. Traffic was getting heavier and the shoulder narrow to non-existing. The last 7 kilometers into Rovaniemi are very nice on a good bikepath that snakes its way through the forest and mostly downhill. We find the second knife store and Patrick scores. Not only does he get the two model 138 knives, but he also gets the 20% discount offered (on-line) when you sign up on their website.
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On the other hand, as an old guy getting rid of stuff, I can just admire them with delight!
3 months ago
Next is a birthday lunch at a pretty nice Mexican restaurant in downtown. The street tacos are small but nice and authentic. Then another 5 kilometers to Lotta’s house just south of town. We make a stop at a small grocery store for dinner snacks and breakfast tomorrow and get to the split-level house in a nice wooded neighborhood just as the wind picks up and rain threatens.
We met Lotta briefly somewhere in Tajikistan, she was cycling solo in the opposite direction as us. We remember she was sick and had some minor bike issues that Patrick and Joe tried to help her with. Over the years we have stayed in touch. Sadly, she and her boyfriend are on a vacation in Norway, but Lotta hid a key for us and send us a detailed photo map on where to find it.
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We make ourselves at home. Hot shower, laundry gets done and a light dinner. With the exception of cycling 60kms back to Stockholm at the end of the tour, this ends the cycling of the Scandinavian part.
We will be staying here almost two days, tomorrow a day to go sightseeing in Rovaniemi and mail some excess gear to our host in Stockholm. Saturday evening we will take the night train south to Helsinki. Next part of the tour, the Baltics.
Today's ride: 75 km (47 miles)
Total: 2,682 km (1,666 miles)
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3 months ago
3 months ago