August 15, 2024
Day 45: Karasjok to Muotkan Ruoktu
Into Finland
"20kms to Finland and coffee at a cafe," Patrick declares as we set off early this morning. A strong southerly wind is again forecasted for later this afternoon. Our route is mostly Southeast, we get some protection from the wind. `
We stop at the gas station in Karasjok to spend the last of our coins. We have a handful for 27 kroner, about $2.70. In Norway, this is not enough to buy a chocolate bar, or barely anything for that matter. The only item Patrick can find is a roll of candy for 20 kroner. The left over 7 kroner are left for somebody to find.
After about 21km we cross the Karasjohka river and into Finland, country 75 for us over all of our tours. Up the hill and past the old border post we reach Karigasniem and find cafe is closed. The restaurant at the hotel is open and we do get a cup of coffee and fresh pastry. Next stop is shopping at the small market.
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Then the big climb for today starts, a sign indicates 10% grade. Rachel makes it 2/3rds up this part of the hill before having to push her bike. We continue to gain elevation over the next 5kms. We get protection from the wind by the trees. The colors of the birch trees look like fall, Patrick thinks it’s because of drought.
In a national park area, we stop for a food break.
The hills are undulating, sometimes enough momentum from the downhill to get up the next hill. On one climb, two reindeer are on the road and get spooked as Rachel rides by…they keep running ahead up and over the hill and further on until they finally turn off through an opening in the fence and into the great beyond. Patrick gets some nice telephoto shots of them.
About 6 kms before our destination, there is another campground with a café. We stop for a second cup of coffee and fix ourselves a sandwich. Twice in one day, just like how we like cycle touring and have missed…cafes in Sweden and Norway seemed non-existent or didn’t open until 11am.
We check into the cabin we have for tonight. Still no rain today but the skies look threatening. The beer is cheaper here in Finland yet not really cheap, but we treat ourselves to two beers. Later, dinner in the café. The place is pretty special. It was owned for over sixty years by a local Sami guy, but was getting pretty run-down. Last fall a young French-Polish couple bought the place and are working hard to get it up the modern standards. The café is a very nice old log building with a large stone fireplace. The cabins are also small log structures, the showers / toilets are newer buildings that still need some TLC. All in all a very nice place with lots of potential.
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Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 2,279 km (1,415 miles)
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