July 31, 2024
Day 30: Fjordbotn to Tromso
To Tromso, Capital of the Arctic
“The boats are getting smaller,” Patrick says as we ride up to the pier where the ferry boat is docked. We backtracked 4 km to the main road from the campground, then another 8km to Botnhamn. We are early as usual getting there at 0700 for the 0800 ferry. It’s just nicer not to stress about catching a ferry.
When we arrive we see Hendrick, the Norwegian skate skier, he made it here last night and slept on the covered porch of a small building. There is a building with two WC including showers. The ferries are a nice system, free to walk on passengers and bicyclists. The crossing to Kvaloya Island is about 40 minutes. No orcas this time, just salmon farms, impressive mountains rising out of the fjords and several ridges covered in wind turbines. After we dock we ride to the little town, there is a grocery store but it’s not open until 0900 and we decide to keep going.
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There is sprinkling of rain overnight, the skies have some clouds but looks to be a nice day. The road follows the coastline which means a long way around from one side of a fjord to the other. The traffic is light except from when a ferry arrives. Today the downhill momentum of one rolling hill helps with the uphill of the next but we are still tired from yesterday. We have one big hill where a section is too steep for Rachel and she pushes the bike. While this uses different muscles, it’s still very tiring. The views are awesome.
There is a tunnel and a bridge today.
About 20km away from Tromso, we pick up a bikepath. Across the bay from Tromso, we stop at a major store. We see 4 French cyclists who are heading south to Lofoten. We share information about the road ahead for them, also that the wind will be more in their favor. As we ride toward the bridge that will take us to Tromso Island, on a flat bike path and headwind, Rachel says it’s like riding over a pass. And yes, we go over one of those hated bridges to reach the island Tromso.
From here, we head past the airport and around the island still on a bike path following EV1 with a tailwind. This is still better than going over the hill to the town. Our hostel is in the downtown area.
We have been given the door code to enter and instructions on how to get to the apartment. Our room is up a steep flight of stairs. There is a kitchen and sitting area, WC with a washing machine (a drier is in another apartment area that we have access to). The room is tiny, but then with the sitting area, it’s all good. There is one other room occupied by a Frenchman. He goes out as we get settled, giving us the space to get cleaned-up and get two loads of laundry done.
“I’ve been craving a hamburger,” Patrick said earlier in the day. For dinner, we go to the northernmost McDonald’s in the world. Then walk around the town, pick up a couple of beers and head back to the hostel.
Tomorrow, we deserve a restday.
Today's ride: 73 km (45 miles)
Total: 1,479 km (918 miles)
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