Day 27: Stokmarknes to Buknesfjorden

July 28, 2024

Three Bridges today

“I woke up during the night and it was raining pretty good,” Patrick says as we listen to the rain on the tent. All night it has poured. Night only lasts a couple of hours here, and even then it isn’t really dark. At about four we wake and since we don’t hear the rain tapping on the tent we decide to make a run to the restrooms. The wind is blowing a thick drizzle rain almost horizontally. We are happy we have a quality tent with a rainfly that goes all the way to the ground so windblown rain cannot get under it. The weather map shows a window of opportunity when the rain may stop….and we wait. Finally the ticking of rain on the tent lightens and stops at about eight.

We pack up the inner tent entirely before venturing out. This is the beauty of the Hilleberg Staika, our things are dry under the rain fly as we pack and then take down the inner tent. We ride to the service building and kitchen to eat breakfast and then we are off around 9am onto the bike path that continues out of town. We dodge huge slugs on the path. Right off the bat is the first high bridge to cross.

Dodging slugs on the bike path as we leave the campground

The sky really wasn't this bad, it only seemed like it to Rachel....and still not able to do clouds.

That building has trees growing on the roof.

Today is another day to wear waterproof socks. Throughout the day we don’t get much rain, but riding through the puddles on the road splashes our shoes.

After about 28km we reach Sortland and stop at a Circle K for coffee and to eat one of our pastries. Patrick is considering taking his rain pants off, and Rachel says, “don’t do it.” Murphy’s law would dictate a downpour if we chance it. We cross the second high bridge and pick up a bike path.

The second bridge, and then a third smaller bridge

Looking back at Sortland from the bridge.

Whaling harpoon as yard decoration. I wonder if that falls under the second amendment.

Rachel thinks of Kristen yesterday seeing this sign with her destination still 74km

Bicycles are a popular yard decoration on this EV1 route. We see old bikes painted in blue, yellow, and red.

Nearing Buksnesfjord, we have one more inlet to round and we see the Andoy Friluftssenter our destination for today. At the reception, there are two other touring cycles and we see the solo cyclist who passed us but then stopped so were ahead of her zip by. And two bikepacking -cyclists pass heading South.

We have a choice camping or a room and decide to treat ourselves with a room. While waiting for the room to be ready, we have a waffle for a snack, and Hendrich the Norwegian cyclists arrives. He eats lunch and then is off going further today.

Henrich, the Norwegian cyclist we had dinner with last night catches us. He stops for lunch as we wait to check into our room and then off again

Outside our room on the deck, Patrick cleans the bike chains and dries out the rainfly and tent.

The room is in a building that has an apartment with kitchen on one side, and the other side two rooms with a shared WC. The best part is the room comes with full sized towels. Our towels are still wet from our showers last night….nothing will dry in this weather. There is a little porch where we can dry out tent and raingear. Patrick sacrifices a t-shirt to clean the chains. The clouds are starting to part and later in the afternoon the sun even breaks through. We also treat ourselves to dinner in the restaurant. Patrick has a hearty fish stew, and Rachel tries the platter with local fare including thin slices of whale, moose, lung sausage (?) and smoked salmon along with two types of cheese, cloudberry chutney and grapes. We share a homemade sorbet and cake.

Prices in Norway are indeed very high, this dinner was about $70 but we are comparing it to the kind of restaurants we typically eat at. This is high quality food and you’d pay at least the same at fancy restaurants at home.

It’s nice to be inside, yet the weather seems to be changing with the sun popping out. The promise of a scenic day tomorrow. Our plan is to make it to Tromso in three days. We reserved a room and plan to take a restday there before pushing on to the Northcape.

Today's ride: 67 km (42 miles)
Total: 1,263 km (784 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	8
Comment on this entry	Comment	0