Week 105: to Guamote: most amazing patchwork of fields

March 29, 2017

We wake up hearing the rain drum on the large metal roof of the covered market across the road from our room. It is pouring rain, low clouds obscure the mountains. It is hard to get motivated to get out of a warm bed and cycle in this. It takes us a while, but eventually we haul our gear downstairs, load up the bikes in the hallway and roll out into the rain.

We have a short climb out of town, then a couple of ups-and-downs, then the major climb of the day. The rain tapers off though and just before we start the big climb we can even shed our rain gear. The climb is a tough one, but we are rewarded with views in the valleys where an amazing patchwork of fields covers the hill sides. A short downhill takes us to Alausi, we have done 35km, it is about 11:00 am. Next is a monster 1000 meter climb that we would not be able to take-on today.

Alausi seems like a nice town, but we want to get down the road. So for US$12 we rent another taxi to take us 20 kilometers down the road. He drops us off at the "cerro" or high point. Quite the difference up here, it is cold, the wind blows and rain is threatening. Back into our raingear and we're off again towards Guamote. We don't escape the rain, it pours and we even get a couple of surprise thunder claps very close.

Right at the main intersection off the Pan Americana is the La Giralda Hotel, but the door is chained shut. A nearby shopkeeper assures us the place is open, but nobody answers our knocking. We head for the plaza, but see no hotels around there. A guy at the library points out another place towards the train station. The first place we find is also locked; no answer to our knocking even though a lady in a shop next door is sure they are open.

As Rachel stays with the bikes, Patrick walks back to La Giralda and finds it open now. The price is $40, but lowest she drops is to $36. Still pretty expensive, but the place looks nice. The hotel Rachel is waiting at is still locked-up, Patrick checks out one more nice looking "Art Hotel" in the center but they want $65 for a night. Really? That's why the place is empty, probably just waiting for a busload of tourists ready to take the back-and-forth tourist train.

We end up at La Giralda, in retrospect not bad value. Nice furniture, hot water and good WiFi. There are a couple of small restaurants along the main road, we have another quarter chicken with fries, rice and a couple of slices of tomato and lettuce. They don't seem to eat much vegetables here, unless they consider the white rice you seem to get with every meal here a vegetable.

We are in a different region and the hats and women's dress has changed again. The hats worn by men and women are brown feodor. The women's dress is now a long black skirt, and a shawl draped over their shoulders secured with a pin. We still are trying to get people pictures.

We've had emails with Tony and Sarah, the British couple we met in the Pamirs last July, and have arranged to meet in a few days in Latacunga.