to wild camp Chandra River - 3600m: we love our waterproof socks! - Racpat RTW 2015-2017

May 30, 2016

to wild camp Chandra River - 3600m: we love our waterproof socks!

“I’m sure happy to have these waterproof socks”, Patrick says. We’ve carried them for over a year unused, but for this stretch of road, they’ve sure made a difference in keeping our feet warm.

A later start today to give the bulldozer that left around 5:30am a head start to clear the road blockages. We slept well in our little stone hut, stayed warm using the provided comforters to sleep on the low platform bed, then snuggled in our sleeping bags. It’s cold as we pack up, ate our cornflakes in the dhaba, as others are slowly joining. Hot chai is a nice addition to our usual breakfast. This is a lovely place for travelers and all added up to 360rp for 10 chai, 2 dinners and the “room”. Patrick gives the friendly couple 500 Rp and thanks them for their hospitality.

Then we are off and navigate the first three cleared blockages. Then the fourth is a slog with having to unload our bikes and carry over the snowfield above the road. There is a bulldozer trying to clear the road and huge snowdrifts along the sides. Three of the road workers help portage the gear and bikes and Patrick gives them 100 Rp for “chai”.

A couple of kilometers further there is another blockage of snow that we have to again unload our bikes and carry about 50 meters across. Just as we finished the portage, from the other side the road workers arrive with a bulldozer. The reward for this hard work is beautiful scenery following the Chandra River downstream. We see a storm brewing down the valley and add rain gear to all the other layers we are wearing. We’ve not used the rain gear since riding in Europe. The road has many nula’s (river crossings) to cross. Rivers flow in the road over big rocks. We ride and push our bikes through boulder fields and rock plains like the bottom of a dry river bed.

We make 23kms when the storm is close and start looking for a campsite, finding a flat spot amongst boulders. We are seeing alpine flowers and small green plants. As we are pitching the tent, sprinkles start. Then all the motorcyclists from the dhaba ride by in different groups. We are surprised the road was clear enough for them. It’s mid-afternoon and has been a tough day. Our original plan was to make it to Gramphor. Even under the best circumstances and for strong cyclists, this would have been a challenge to make in one day.

For dinner we fix noodles with tomato soup sauce and veggies. Clean up around 5pm and crawl into the tent just as the sprinkles start. As we fall asleep we hear the rushing water of the Chandra River.

Looks like there is some fresh snow on the Chandra Valley hillsides this morning.

The road is not officially open, but a bulldozer left very early this morning to clear the last of the snowslides. The motorcyclists have decided to wait until the afternoon, but we set out early planning to carry our gear over the snow if necessary.

It did not freeze, but it was darn close.

A path is cleared through the first couple of snowslides that blocked the road.

The next to last blockage is being cleared when we arrive. The workers help us carry our gear and bicycles over the snow.

Rolling again and finding yet another snowslide.

The final snowslide has not yet been touched. A large rock is in the middle of the road. We unload and carry the gear across.

Flowers are out already. No time to waste with such a short season.

We're done after only 23 kilometers. A nice camping area presents itself and we decide enough is enough for today.

Camp set up, filtering some water and cooking a meal.

Today's ride: 23 km (14 miles)
Total: 17,743 km (11,018 miles)

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