to White Rock Camp: the Mongolia we were waiting for

September 18, 2016

We awaken to the swooshing sound of a bird of prey flying over our tent. Even though we are barely fifty meters away from the road and only partially hidden by a small knoll and some scrub bushes, we have a very quiet night. Only one or two vehicles pass. Just as the sun rises we start packing up, cook our breakfast and coffee and push back to the road.

We continue the gradual climb to a distant ridge for about 10 kilometers, then a long swooping downhill into a huge valley. On the other side awaits another ridge. Just over that one, about 30 kilometers from our camp, the road turns north. Birds of prey are everywhere in the valley. A pair seem to escort Rachel down the road. First flying 100 meters ahead just above the road, landing at the edge of the road only to take off in flight when she is about 15 meters from them. At distance marker (DM) 135, there is a gas station and some buildings that might offer some help for desperate travelers. We are still good on food and water so we push on.

Another couple of kilometers DM 131 we cross a small river, the road briefly leaves the river then returns so that we follow it upstream through a beautiful valley for the rest of the day. Though we’ve been gradually climbing most of the day, at DM 117 the grade increases a bit. Another 7 kms there are beautiful spots potentially for camping, though close to the road.

We started today at about 1800 meters and gradually gain 800 meters until we call it a day. The scenery is the Mongolia that we’ve seen on other people’s blog pictures of green and golden hills, rugged peaks, a small river with lots of gers and livestock. The sun is shining and very strong, but the wind is cold and in the shade you notice fall has begun here.

There are good camp spots all along the river. It all depends how far from the road you want to be, or how far from the gers. It would be tough to be hidden from both, we are not bothered, but do try to get away from the livestock and look for a place that is not accessible by vehicle.

At DM 96 we find a nice spot near the river behind some large white rocks that are perfect to lean our bikes against and sit on. We have time for some chores; the stove is running rough, probably dirty gasoline so Patrick first cleaned it then we enjoyed hot coffee and popcorn. We do some laundry in the river and take a warm sponge bath since we have plenty of fuel and water here to heat.

We’ve had very little traffic today and we suspect it’s because it is Sunday. As the evening progressed, the coal trucks were on the move probably getting ready for the border to be open tomorrow.

Headed east on the Chinese mining road. We are happy to have asphalt under our wheels.

We near a small settlement. No sign of any shops though.

Dust devil churning its way down wind. They seem to be attracted to bicyclists.

We start climbing up a river valley. There is water, some green grass and lots of gers.

A minivan full of people stops to take pictures with us. The guy is pretty drunk, but everybody is nice.

Climbing up the valley. We are surprised to see flowing water this time of year.

House with blue roof just before our camp site.

Some large white rocks work perfect to lean our bikes. There is water for washing and filtering.

Today's ride: 72 km (45 miles)
Total: 22,487 km (13,964 miles)

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