to Thiksey – 3600m: Our reward: downhill to the Indus River - Racpat RTW 2015-2017

June 12, 2016

to Thiksey – 3600m: Our reward: downhill to the Indus River

It rains most of the night again, in the morning the valley is filled with damp gray clouds and it rains. We’re lucky we got over the pass yesterday, because today there might be snow up there. We take it easy, no rush to get going in this weather. By about 8:00 it clears up a little and we hit the road. We’re mostly going downhill, the dampness and cold makes us put on just about all our clothes. The valley is beautiful with brightly colored rock faces, a raging chocolate milk river and small Tibetan villages. We see monasteries, lots of stupas and mani stone walls.

At Upshi we reach the Indus River which flows from its source near Mt. Kailash to the Arabian Sea in Pakistan. We meet up again with Dan who is much faster than us on the downhill, plus he doesn’t take photos. After a bread omelet we set off downriver. There are a few climbs and extensive military bases line the road. Traffic also picks up, we had almost forgotten about the crazy Indian drivers.

A hill appears down the valley, as we get closer we see an impressive monastery on its top. Further down the Thiksey monastery becomes visible. From here it looks like a village. Just outside the monastery is the Chamba Hotel. A bit expensive at 2000 rupees for a three person room, but there is electricity, hot water and even a weak wifi connection.

In the afternoon we walk up to the monastery and visit the many temples inside. In one of them a group of monks is making a mandela out of colorful powders. It takes about five monks three days to make this artwork, then after seven days it is destroyed to illustrate the temporary nature of everything. The monastery is beautiful with awesome views down the valley.

The valley we are passing through is full of Buddhist monasteries and stupas.

Crossed the Indus River and reached a major crossroads at Upshi.

Storm threatening as we follow the Indus River towards Leh.

Stakna Monastery sits on a hill overlooking the Indus River Valley.

Thiksey Monastery seen from our hotel roof.

The Dalai Lama is omnipresent in Tibetan Monasteries outside of Tibet.

Monks creating a mandela or sandpainting. After many many hours of tedious work the painting is left for five-seven days and then destroyed to illustrate the impermanence of material items.

Creating a mandela at Thiksey Monastery.

Friendly monk at Thiksey Monastery. The stack of paper in front of him holds the Buddhist scripture. There are many of these, they are stored clamped between two wooden planks inside huge bookcases.

Today's ride: 60 km (37 miles)
Total: 18,150 km (11,271 miles)

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