to Sayram Lake: Uphill on G30

August 30, 2016

“That was a nice hand off,” Rachel says after Patrick cycles past the road construction machine not stopping and the worker stretching out the cab hands him a bottle of tea. All day we’ve been gradually climbing and a bit of tailwind, nothing over a 4% grade. After leaving town, there were two short tunnels less than 500 meters, well lit but no shoulder. We are still seeing plenty of yurts.

We cycle on shoulder of the G30 expressway, one of the longest cross-China roads. When the new road was built they left sections of the old road, but fenced it off so there are not many places to get off and find refreshment. The new G30 road has been washed out in many places and is being repaired so we weave between the cones staying on the construction side sometimes. Other times not knowing if we can get through, we follow the directions of going to the single lane of the oncoming traffic.

About 45kms, there is a police checkpoint which we are waved through, and gas stations along with many restaurants and shops. We stop for something to eat and have scrambled eggs with onion, tomato, and green pepper. This dish was a staple for us in 2007 when cycling in Yunnan China. Patrick also saw the lady making buns made of long stringy dough. We had been seeing so many cans of Red Bull and Nescafe tossed at the side of the road, we also have a Nescafe latte in a can.

We head out again on the G30 and see a sign that bikes are allowed on this section. So even though on leaving Khorgas there were signs prohibiting bicycles on the expressway, it is allowed when there is no alternative. We decide to just stick with G30 all the way because it has a nice shoulder, is smooth and the traffic is light. Police cars passed us and through police checkpoints, biking on the expressway seemed to be no problem.

Then the climb gets a little steeper, cycling through tall granite cliffs and pine trees. Coming around the bend in the road, we get our first glimpse of the massive suspension bridge and elevated roadway. After crossing under the bridge, we see a sign and a third a lane. Rachel thinks the sign says “slower traffic keep right”. Then through a tunnel that is 1.5kms, well lit yet we keep our sunglasses on, and still no shoulder. The traffic noise inside the tunnel is a bit disorienting and unnerving, but the traffic gives us space.

The elevated roadway-tunnel-bridge combination creates a giant figure eight to climb to the pass. It is a very impressive project and beautiful to cycle. We reach the final two tunnels, longer so we take our sunglasses off for these. When we emerge from the last tunnel, we see clusters of yurts and the lake. Along the lakeshore it’s a zoo, with horses and tourists riding horses. We are looking for a camping spot, some food and water.

In another journal we read about a site going west along the lakeshore. The lakeshore is all fenced off and people seem to pay to access the shore. About a kilometer away there are some yurts visible so we head there first. They are not interested in our business; don’t even let us enter with our bikes. So we go on. Another kilometer further we enter what seems like a national park, there is a barrier but we are waved through. Then there is a large wooden building with a restaurant and shops. We have a nice noodle dish, filter water and fill our water bladder.

Another kilometer on the lake shore road brings us to a point with some large standing rocks and a bulldozer track down to the lake. It will require pushing tomorrow, but no car is going to drive down this track so we check it out. Down at the lake is a small construction site where they placed an anti-erosion rockwall in the lake. There are some good grassy areas flat enough for our tent so this is where we stay. The lake is warmer than expected so Patrick takes a brief swim.

Today was a good day of cycling on a nice road. We gained about 1400 meters of elevation and are on our way to Urumqi.

We enter the G30 at Khorgas. 657 km to Urumqi. A fellow cyclist described the characters as follows: first a mermaid sitting on a rock, second a robot, third a Christmas tree and finally a guy who has to pee but is trying to look casual about it.

These stringy breadrolls are not intended to be eaten whole. Just Patrick showing off his chopstick skills.

The road climbs up to Saryam lake via a series of long tunnels, a suspension bridge, elevated roadways hugging the hillsides and another long tunnel.

Cardboard cop guarding the suspension bridge.

Elevated roadway headed to another 4 kilometer long tunnel. On the other side is Sayram Lake.

Shore of Sayram Lake at the other side of the tunnel. We are surprised to find the lakeshore fenced off with tickets being sold to hordes of Chinese tourists to access the lake. A couple of kilometers along the western shore though we find unrestricted access.

Bikes for rent at what looks like a visitor center.

Taking a dip in Sayram Lake. We've seen some blogs from other cyclists passing by here in winter and it looks like a barren place. Today the water is quite nice.

Today's ride: 91 km (57 miles)
Total: 21,320 km (13,240 miles)

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