to Santa Rosa de Cabal: the time of the flat roads is ending
The time of the flat roads is ending. For today at least, we start with a climb out of Cartago and end with a climb into Santa Rosa and a lot of gaining elevation in between.
On the climb away from Cartago, Patrick stopped around the curve on the hill to wait as Rachel slowly climbs. A woman motorcyclist stops and indicates to Patrick that we should stay closer together, that this area is "not safe". We haven't felt it unsafe but locals know best. There haven't been the military police as in areas between Pasto and Popayan. Every morning, there are plenty of local cyclists on both sides of the road as well as lots of traffic.
A guy waves Patrick down and takes his picture. There is a restaurant so when he suggests a stop for a drink it sounds good, we are ready for a break. Ezekiel is an Archaeologist and Anthropologist and speaks very good English, so we have a nice conversation. He explains that this area is known for coffee, and ordered Tinto, (translates as "ink") a small coffee with a lime. Colombians prefer coffee-flavored drinks. This is because the best coffee is exported and Colombians have learned to fix the "not export quality" beans for use. We are just happy to finally be getting good cups of coffee!
In talking over our route to Cartagena, he has good recommendations for a different route. He indicates the area up to Apartado and Turbo is considered unsafe because of paramilitary rebels. Since he has traveled extensively we are inclined to take his suggestions. We'll use the two planned rest days in Santa Rosa to research different routes.
The final climb takes us through a 125 meter tunnel and then out onto a helix designed road. Patrick says "Just like the one in China but on a smaller scale". Reaching Santa Rosa, we navigate to the Banana Hostel. It's in a great location, very near the plaza and restaurants. The first room we are shown has a door with 3 inches at the top open. Pablo, the staff checking us in has a "can do" attitude and shows us another room we can have that is larger and closer to the shared bathroom. Then the hot water in the shower is cold, okay for Patrick, but Rachel really needs at least warm water to wash her long hair. Pablo again does what it takes, shows her a different shower that has hot water. When Rachel asks about laundry, she is shown the washing machine and laundry soap and a nice place to hang for drying.
This area is known for Chorizo. So for dinner we go to a recommended place. Rachel is not so much a fan for Chorizo, but the meals were okay.
We will take two restdays here.
Leaving Cartago early morning. We cross a river and watch long boats heavily loaded with sand make their way upriver. It reminds us of Asia.
A guy waves us down and buys us coffee at a nearby restaurant. His name is Ezekiel, he is an archaeologist and anthropologist from Bogota who has traveled extensively. He speaks English well and it is nice to be able to have a good conversation with a Colombian, the language barrier has been tough.
Suburbs of Pereira. Houses perched on impossibly steep hillsides. All it takes is somebody cutting down the bamboo and trees, maybe to try and garden, and everything will end up in the river at the next heavy rains.
