to San Jorge: along Lake Nicaragua

June 8, 2017

We are awaken by the howler monkeys chattering before our alarm clock goes off. The ride is short today, we still want an early start, you never know how long the the border crossings can take. One item we are aware of is the "exit tax" one has to pay to leave Costa Rica. As we check out,it turns out the finca owner can take care of that right here. We pay $8 each, and get an official looking receipt in return. This is great service offered by the owners of the finca, and gives us one less thing to figure out at the border where things can get hectic sometimes.

We ride the two and a half kilometers back up to the main road and head north. There is a climb, then a long downhill. A long line of trucks indicates we are getting close. There are several places at the border to pay the exit tax, also there are money changers. We had not seen these for a long time, with ATM's everywhere, we thought they had become extinct. We only have 6000C left over from Costa Rica, but it is nice to start the next country with a little cash. 60000 Costa Rican Colon, about $10, makes about 300 Nicaraguan Cordobas.

Next task is getting the Costa Rica exit stamp. It is a smooth process with the exit tax already paid. In minutes we are in and out.

Then a short ride through no-mans land to the Nicaragua immigration. While Rachel watches the bikes Patrick goes in to figure things out. Right in the door you have to pay $1 "community tax", then there is a line of immigration officers behind enclosed podiums that scrutinize your passport. They charge another $12 for the entry stamp. Normally you would then continue to the customs baggage check, but since our bikes our still outside we backtrack. After Patrick's successful run Rachel repeats the process. We avoid the xray machines in the customs area.

We are in Nicaragua. There are two more passport checks, one after about 500 meters, the other after about ten kilometers. People are friendly and even though the road only has a narrow shoulder, the riding is pleasant. The security guard at the last check gives information about Nicaragua more like a tourist guide. We get our first views of Lake Nicaragua and the Ometepe Island with its two volcanoes. Other than at the border there is not any shops along the way.

We ride to Rivas and head into town to find a room. The first hotel we try is closed down, the second way too expensive. The next one does not have rooms ready yet: come back in an hour..... We regroup with a cold drink and chocolate cake at a bakery and decide to ride to the lake shore. There are more hotels there and the views to Ometepe Island might be worth it.

We find a decent room at Southern Nights Hotel. The lake shore is a bit disappointing with lots of trash and nothing going on. But we enjoy the American style food, AC and TV.

The evening meal is a great American style hamburger. The smell even reminded Rachel of the drive-in burgers she grew up with. Ronny, the American owner was having his own dinner and joined us for awhile with him telling us stories. He was a bull-rider then a horse jockey and has lived in Central America for a long time. He tells the stories with an Arkansas twang, is silver haired with a silver mustache. One poignant story he relates is a conversation with one of his staff how he grew up poor in the midwest. She responded with "you had 40 acres of land, a house, water, a cow, goats and chickens and you think you were poor?"

All in all a good day, a new country and a nice relaxing evening.

Leaving the Cabanas Canas Castilla and riding back to the main road.

Long line of trucks near the Costa Rica - Nicaragua border.

Check-point just before the actual border.

We have arrived in country #39: Nicaragua.

First flat tire in Central America. Another small metal wire. Patrick has another one in his front tire, but the leak is so small he has just been adding air every couple of days. Something to fix on the next restday.

The road is good, there are many wind turbines along the lake. No wind today though.

Other turbines are still under construction. Is this the future, or shall we keep burning coal?

We considered staying in Rivas. The hotel we go to first is closed, two others are too expensive. We decide the head to San Jorge and the lakeside instead.

View across Lake Nicaragua to Ometepe Island.

Having a beer at Ronny's restaurant. He is full of good stories.

Today's ride: 58 km (36 miles)
Total: 32,948 km (20,461 miles)

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