To Rumphi: early start for a big climb

October 2, 2015

"Madam didn't stop", the immigration officer, waving and standing in the middle of the road, said stopping Patrick at the checkpoint and asked when he entered Malawi and that we need a visa. "Madam has the passports. We didn't need a visa when we entered Malawi three days ago, and this is bad for tourism," Patrick says. Rachel had a tailwind, a bit of downhill and a hill up ahead, and not about to stop so flew past the traffic cones hearing shouts of "Madam, Madam".

The day started very early, up before daybreak to pack and have breakfast, and push our bikes through the soft sand back to the main road so we could start cycling at first light. The first 16 kms were along the lake and we watch the day wake up. A beautiful sunrise over the lake, people washing, even pigs walking along the shoreline. Last night, we watched a row of lights out on the lake, fishermen, and today we see them selling fish at the side of the road.

Then the climb starts at 500 meters to 1100meters.

10kms gaining 600 meters.

The road then descends, losing 250 meters, then "flattens" gradually regaining the elevation to our highest point by the end of the day to Rumphi. We reach Rumphi just as the day becomes very hot and 9.6kms that we will retrace tomorrow back to the main road.

The wind was our friend today!

We witness the sunrise as we pedal along the lake.

Then the climb starts. For some reason the main road headed north in Malawi does not follow the coast the entire way. Here it starts climbing up the escarpment.

The benefit of climbing is that you get good views. "I have a photo of myself at this site 21 years ago. The hairdo is similar."

Girls in their school uniforms. The adults shoo them away so they get to school in time.

Dry and dusty. The Owner of Hakuna Matata told us that Malawi did not get much rain during the last rainy season. They hope for better this December.

Only in Malawi did we start seeing more women on bikes. This girl already has a small one to haul around.

Very true. Certainly with the news from Roseburg Oregon today.

We have to detour about 7km of the main road to get to Rumphi and a guesthouse. Hot and dry.

Today's ride: 88 km (55 miles)
Total: 7,332 km (4,553 miles)

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