May 6, 2016
To Rishikesh: Following the Ganges Canal
Today was the opposite from yesterday, there was little traffic and very quiet roads. How's that? We followed canal roads almost exclusively, and not until riding through Rishikesh did we get crazy drivers again.
We left our hotel early on the road toward Kotdwar. A few kilometers out of town we take the Eastern Ganges Canal road. This is fantastic cycling just like following a railroad line, essentially flat with good surface. We see very few people.
The road crosses NH 74 and the surface road deteriorates for about 6 kms and slows our progress until we are briefly back on NH 74. The canal road continues and even though the the surface still looks bad, tempting as the brand new main road is, we decide its better than the traffic. We see a bridge over the canal and take a break after crossing. We still have crackers, though almost pulverized and the last of the peanut butter from before Kathmandu.
Pleasantly surprised, the surface improves and as we get closer to Haridwar, we decide to get to main road for cold drinks and water. At a point near the main road, we navigate to it and after a couple of kms we pass a big Hindu temple and take a break. Stalls line the road opposite the temple selling offerings, food and drinks. We watch the chaos of buses dropping pilgrims off and tuk tuks lined up to take the pilgrims back home and the through traffic honking. Not sure a new wider road is a good idea for safety with the way traffic goes in India.
A few more kms, we catch the Cheela Dam-Rishikesh road. Expecting this to be the same along a canal, the road starts out going up and around the cell tower hill, rolling then flattens, some rolling hills, then climbing away from the dam. The last stretch into Rishikesh is a gradual incline, barely noticeable.
Then going through Rishkesh, we are reminded of what we missed most of the day. Traffic jams, everyone vying for space. One final hill to Bhandari Swiss Cottage. We check in and have a premium room with awesome view of the Ganges and the valley for 1400 rupees ($21).
Time to relax for a few days. We will get our camping gear back from Ramesh who graciously let us use his mailing address, and finalize the next part of the route.
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Today's ride: 77 km (48 miles)
Total: 16,889 km (10,488 miles)
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