to Pooh - 2811m: rough roads make for tough going - Racpat RTW 2015-2017

May 21, 2016

to Pooh - 2811m: rough roads make for tough going

The day starts with a long cold descent from Kalpa through Reckong Peo back to the main road and with beautiful views.

The road continues to hug the cliffs high above the Sutlej River. We see signs with messages, “Mountain area views pleasure if drive with leisure”; “Time is money, life is precious”; “Don’t mix drink and drive”; “you are travelling on the world’s most treacherous road”; “landslide area begins” and watch for “Shooting stones”.

There are sections of construction, and at Akpa a local points us to a wooden bridge that we could go across instead of the temporary road while the new bridge is being built that goes down then back up. We stop at the first checkpoint for the Inner Line Permit. This goes much smoother than getting the permit. Our information is noted down in a big ledger, the form is stamped and we are off again.

There’s not much opportunity for food along this stretch. At Spillow, we stop for lunch of chow mien and have 24kms to go. We cycle along rocky canyon walls and have left behind the trees. The road varies, sometimes there are short sections of asphalt , then it is rocky, then broken asphalt. The last 7kms is more construction, one day this road will be much improved…at least until there is a landslide.

We can see Pooh on the hill, about 250 meters above the road. We had hoped to get a jeep taxi up, but his time there are none. A passing motorcyclist confirms that there are guesthouses near the bazaar so we start cycling and pushing. There are 2 kms of switchback and a gain of 250meters up to Pooh. As the road turns directions, so does the wind direction. Finally to what looks like a town center we check into the Om Hotel and have a beautiful view over the valley and a nice meal in the restaurant. Bikes are stored down with a BMW motorbike. Turns out the bike belongs to Karanbir, our WS host in Kaza.

Back down to the Sutlej River from Kalpa.

Bro has painted messages to encourage safety on rocks and mountain sides, plus placed signs everywhere. We don't think though that they are getting through to the average Indian driver.

Road cut into the mountain side, Sutlej River below.

Just before the "Inner Line Permit" checkpoint we cross the river. This is the old bridge, officially closed to traffic by means of a stack of rocks on both sides. Locals point us to cross here though because the temporary bridge lays much much lower in the canyon.

The "Inner Line Permit" checkpoint. Two friendly guys in a metal shed. Our passports and permits are checked, all details noted in a large ledger.

"World's most treacherous road" sign. Patrick says "I would not know about that, but the landslides are a bit scary even this time of the year. I would not want to ride this during the monsoon."

View from our hotel in Pooh after we have pushed our bikes up from the valley floor. We guess it's a reward. Tomorrow we'll start by going back down again.

Today's ride: 71 km (44 miles)
Total: 17,475 km (10,852 miles)

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