to Nateuy: we don't remember any of this

November 28, 2016

“Wonder where all the cyclists are?” Patrick said earlier today and then coming around a corner on a downhill we finally meet two cyclists climbing up the hill. Don and Tina are from Canada. They started off backpacking SE Asia, then bought bikes in Chiang Mai and are now headed towards Vietnam.

We started the day seeing a line of young monks out collecting alms. The route today is the same we took almost 10 years ago when we came up through South East Asia on our way to China and Tibet. We know we rode this road, but we cannot remember any of it. There is one hill today. With the sun mostly hidden behind the fog the temperature is cool, it is nice to ride.

There are villages strung along the new road, many small wooden houses on stilts perched between the road and hillside. Interspersed with the wooden huts are newer concrete houses with concrete and ceramic balusters on the porch. Road signs are more prevalent, they are written in Lao and Chinese. Lots of small pickup trucks pass by, the traffic all very civilized with trucks slowing behind us to safely pass and no honking.

At the summit there is a line of rough wooden stalls where women sell vegetables and bananas. Patrick buys 6000kip worth of bananas, but that are so many he gives part of them back.

We reach Nateuy at about three and go the guesthouse just across the bridge on the road to Muang Namtha. There is a newer guesthouse over a restaurant about two kilometers towards Oudomsay that is probably the best choice in town. The Khai Sa Wang Guesthouse is a bit rough, but it is only 60,000kip and there is hot water. The bed is lumpy, the room small with dirty walls and there is a squat toilet. Sometimes while bicycle touring, you just have to stay in places like this. We had a basic Pho Bo at the restaurant next door and eat chocolate covered cookies for dessert.

Another foggy morning. It burns off though, the day stays cool.

Children playing by the roadside. We see toddlers with little backpacks by themselves walking to somewhere.

For a while the road follows a ridge and gives us nice views over surrounding mountains.

We are nearing the Chinese border at Boten. Ten years ago we crossed here into China.

Our bathroom in Nateuy..... we guess it is better than the one we had in this town ten years ago, but not by much.

Today's ride: 80 km (50 miles)
Total: 25,209 km (15,655 miles)

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