to Loikaw: bogged down in red mud

January 5, 2017

"The quickest way to get help is to be in the way" Rachel says. The guy who seemed to be in charge of clearing the traffic jam because of the red mud pointed to a couple of guys to take Rachel's bike. She was practically dragging it since the back wheel wouldn't turn because of the mud. "It's a good thing the truck driver insisted on giving you the screwdriver" Rachel adds. The red clay mud has bogged down our wheels and the screwdriver is much better in cleaning out the mud than a stick. It took 2 hours to go 2km.

The day started with a gradual climb out of town. We come by a small roadside market stopping to take pictures and buy some bananas. The road begins to narrow and after 10km we were looking forward to the downhill. The descent was all too brief. The road surface became mud with trucks, buses and cars stuck in the mud. Motorcycles were making their way through toward us, so we continued. Finally, a truck driver pointed us to a side track, helping us get our bikes down the steep bank. We stop at the bottom to clean our tires, he brings us a screwdriver and helps clean, then insists that we keep the screwdriver. Following the track that finally ends, we both start pushing one bike back up to the road. Soon, a guy comes to take Rachel's place and then goes back to help Patrick with his bike. People were so friendly and helpful. We get to where we can start cycling, so we stop one more time to clean the wheels. Unloading bags, wheels off and turning the bike upside down to get at the fenders.

Continuing the descent through a town, we stop on the outskirts for another break. From here, the road levels out with one hill at 60km. Traffic starts to pass us, so we figure the road is unblocked. One truck slows down and talks with Patrick, it's the driver who gave us the screwdriver. Patrick asks if he wants it back, still no, so Patrick leaves it at the side of the road where someone will find it.

"Look one hill has a stupa, and the other hill next to it has a cross" Rachel says. English and French Missionaries brought Christainity to Buddhist Burma in the 17th century. We've noticed in this area Christain churches.

About 20km to Loikaw, we take a shortcut road along a canal. This saved kilometers, but sure beat up the body. We enter Loikaw through the back roads. This is when GPS makes a difference. In 2007, we tried navigating through back roads into Ho Chi Ming City....and really got lost. Today though, we find the Nan Ayar Inn that is the best value in town only find that only a basic room with bathroom down the hall available. The time is getting late and we need to get bus tickets for Taunggoo so we continue on into town to find a travel agency. We have only 5 days left on our visa. After searching for a half an hour, and checking on a couple of hotels with the cost of a room 60000 and 70000 kyat, we stay at Hotel Mingalar for 60000 kyat because the reception desk helped with the bus tickets.

Tomorrow, we take the bus at 7am.

Women spreading gravel for new road surface. All the rock and gravel placement is done by hand (mostly by women), the only machinery is a roller to compact things.

Women breaking up rocks and sorting different gravel sizes in different piles.

The road surface disappears for a while. The rain has turned this red clay into a sticky mess.

Traffic has been stuck here for two days. The stranded truckers are very helpful leading us around the worst bit and giving us a screwdriver to pry the mud from between the tire and fender.

Road jam in Myanmar. Traffic has been stuck here for two days because of heavy rain and red clay.

The road surface is very narrow. When traffic meets both vehicles need to move to one side of the asphalt. They treat cyclists with respect though.

"Shortcut" to Loikaw. It saves some kilometers but is rough going.

Loikaw and the hill temples. By the time we finally find a hotel it is too dark to go visit.

Today's ride: 89 km (55 miles)
Total: 27,005 km (16,770 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	0
Comment on this entry	Comment	0