to Erzurum: Serendipity

June 25, 2015

The next three day stretch to Erzurum has some uncertainity. Is there a hotel in Pulumur? What about the climb over the pass where we will have to gain 700 meters in elevation only to lose it and re-again the next day; is this too much climbing for us? Askale has a hotel and would place us 52 kms from Erzurum but the distance between towns too great so will need to free camp in an area we've been told is not best to camp.

We start out early still recovering from the heat and climbs of yesterday, knowing today to be the same. For 22kms we follow the river upstream through a gorge, sometimes close to the river and then climbing away. The landscape reminds us again of home in Idaho. We stop for a rest at a roadside store and water.

Then Serendipity. A man driving a car has also stopped, curious about us, and talks with Patrick in French. A big truck pulls in for a rest break. We are trying to decide how realistic it is for us to cycle this stretch. The man is talking with the truck driver convincing him to take us to Erzurum.

Sometimes we just need to take cues from events all coming together in alignment. We are on board with the idea of taking a ride and soon bikes, gear and us are on the truck. The scenery continues to be beautiful and would be great cycling under the right conditions. There is no hotel that we could tell in Pulumur, though we've heard there are "teacher houses" (orgretmenevi) in some towns. There also seems to be a restaurant just past town that would make a good camp spot.

After the first pass and on the descent there is a resturant that advertises camping. We slowly make our way over the second pass, stop for chai and by afternoon 20kms away from Erzurum. The trucker drops us off at the junction. We've not eaten since our first break, so we stop at a gas station before continuing into the city. Eventually, we find the Otel Kervansaray and discover a French couple also cycle touring are staying here.

Beautiful scenery on the road towards Purumur. We would highly recommend this way for fit cyclists, something we are not this morning.

At a reststop a guy speaks French to Patrick, then a truck stops and why we don't know, but the guy asks the driver if he is going our way (Erzurum) and if he can take us. We must have been looking rough. At first a bit reluctant, but then we're onboard!

Bikes and gear are loaded on the steel cargo.

Off we go. The truck is slow, but we get to enjoy the scenery.

We get dropped off at the junction to Erzurum and cycle the last 20 some kilometers into town. At a gas station we are given chairs and a table for for a discrete lunch-break.

Today's ride: 42 km (26 miles)
Total: 4,193 km (2,604 miles)

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