to Dekh: hot and bumpy

July 11, 2016

“That was the most terrifying experience” Rachel says returning from the outhouse that is supported over the edge of the Panj River with a flexible metal floor.

We are the first ones to set off, say our goodbyes to the Romanian motorcyclists and expect Jo, Will and Raphael to catch up with us shortly. The road keeps following the Panj River and Afghan border through some awesome mountain scenery. We take a lunch break and the rest of our cycling group shows up. Super Cycling Man almost manages to get married to the girl running the shop, but she deems him “too old”. The cold apple juice and snicker bars hit the spot though.

After 25kms from the campsite, we reach the next police checkpoint just as a group of motorcyclists and a couple of cars also arrive, it creates a bit of a jam at the little window where a surly rough looking policeman scrutinizes people’s passports and visas. Again, some details are taken down and we are waved through. It is real hot by now, for a while we relax in the shade at a café behind the checkpoint. We even try some of their borsht, a soup with lots of cabbage, meat, carrots, onion and potato. With some bread to dip it makes a nice hearty lunch.

The guys decide to wait out the heat a bit longer, but we decide to go on. It starts with a brutally hot climb from the checkpoint, and then the river broadens in a wider valley with less steep sections. We make good time and get to Dekh looking for a potential campsite that was indicated on maps.me.

Entering Dekh, there was one homestay (Mexmohxoha) that Patrick checked out that was expensive for being only an open room with mats. We continued on through town still looking for a campsite that is supposed to be near. Rachel stopped a motorcyclist, a Swiss, and asked about the road ahead. He says the road goes into a narrow canyon for the next 20kms and no camping. Turning around, we pass an open gate and see a family sitting in a nice orchard / garden. Patrick points at our tent and promptly gets invited to put it under their fruit trees. A little later a table and some chairs are brought out, and we are given apricots, cherries, cookies and later that evening a meal of French fries, salad and bread with sweets, tea and juice for desert.

The Tajikistan people are so very welcoming and generous to guests.

Nice peaks are vissible as we follow the Panj River along the Afghan border.

Not sure who's "friendship" painting this is.

Roadworker walking down the road with a shovel and flicking loose rocks off to the side.

Nice mountain scenery along the Panj River.

Cyclist convention under a tree at a "magazin" or grocery store.

Another cyclists convention, we meet two Swiss cyclists headed west.

Women preparing french fries for our dinner.

Outhouse in Dekh. Across the river is Afghanistan.

Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles)
Total: 18,988 km (11,792 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	0
Comment on this entry	Comment	0