to Deadwood: long day on the Mickelson Trail

September 10, 2017

Our original plan for today was to take it easy this morning, leave late and only ride about 25 kilometers to Hill City. Yesterday evening we spoke with a couple on a tandem who are headed north and rode all the way from Deadwood here in one day yesterday. We were tempted to do the same in the opposite direction, but then decided against it: too long a day on a gravel surface. Then when we wake up this morning we decide to go for it after all. So we quickly pack, have our oatmeal and coffee and set off. The trail first climbs to a summit, then a great gradual downhill to Hill City. On our way we see the Crazy Horse Memorial that is still under construction and probably will be for the next hundred years.

In Hill City we battle the Sunday morning crowds into a packed cafe and have a nice second breakfast at about double what it would have cost in Nebraska. It is good though. Then starts another climb, followed by a long downhill and the longest climb of the day: about 30km up at a very gradual grade. But it is still hard work, the limestone just does not roll as smooth as pavement and you always have to be on guard for loose spots. The great scenery and no motor traffic makes it worth it though. For a big part of the day the trail is away from roads, sometimes in its own valley with only a river and other cyclists around. There is a fair number of riders on the trail, most of them very friendly and ready for a talk.

The second breakfast sustains us for a long time, but it is not enough to get us over the final hill of the day. With only five more kilometers to climb we have to stop for a sandwich and a break. The final downhill is very nice, we descend into a deep valley, then level off for a bit before descending all the way into Deadwood. We have been here twice before and have no need for the casino's except that the "gaming resort" across the street from the Whistler Gulch Campground has the closest restaurant. We go for some well deserved steaks.

The campground is okay, but way overpriced at $30 for a dead-grass site with a long walk to the restroom building. These places really cater to RV'ers and we are in the Black Hills.

Burlington Northern caboose on the Mickelson Trail in Custer.

Right out of Custer we pass through pretty meadows with ponds reflecting the nearby rocks.

Rachel with Crazy Horse's face carved in the mountain ridge beyond.

Fall colors are starting to show, especially on the north sides of the mountains.

We pass through several train tunnels today.

There are lots of gates across the trail. Some sections are open range. The gates have a weight attached to them that keeps them closed.

Rachel fixes our ham and cheese sandwiches with 25km to go to Deadwood.

Cresting the final hill on our route today.

Old railroad crossing sign along the Mickelson Trail.

Today's ride: 105 km (65 miles)
Total: 39,237 km (24,366 miles)

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