We were warned. Cyclists suggested not to cycle from the city. A local suggested taking a van-taxi to the Serpentina Pasamayo, he also suggested the coastal road if we did cycle. We cycled anyway and once off the bike path until 40kms away, a very unpleasant experience. "Very unpleasant" doesn't do the experience justice.
The Marquay Friends Hostel staff is terrific. When we mentioned we would leave early, they offered to make us breakfast at 6am instead of the regular time at 8am. After travelling in Asia, sometimes we learned there is a disconnect from what is said will be done, and what actually occurs. Not this morning, John was ready and made us breakfast before waving us off.
We followed the bike path until almost downtown, then navigated a route to join the Pan-American highway. The ride became a constant stopping and going at traffic lights, or buses and minivans cutting us off to pick up or let off passengers. And breathing the fumes. After two hours and 28km, we stopped for a cold drink and cookies. The countryside is very dry and dusty looking, small square houses built up on the hillsides.
At 40km plus a few, we turn off onto the Serpentine Pasamayo road. Patrick sees a sign, "No bicycletas". We continue on anyway. This road essentially is a truck and buses route. It also climbs over the sand dunes but not as high as the Pan-American. There is a 6" drop off to a narrow shoulder that sometimes is covered with sand. The views are fantastic! The traffic not so much until we hit road construction sections. These sections would be one way traffic, periodically, we have the road to ourselves and can really enjoy the view. As we drop down to the Ocean, the valley is green.
We reached Chancay around 12:30. We head first to the "castillo" which we thought was some kind of historic building. From the gate it looks more like an amusement park. We decide to keep going to the town center, but then see the Hospedaja Restaurant Manolos and they have a swimming pool. We check out a room, pretty decent for only 40 sols (about $13). Better yet, it's a room that we can roll the loaded bikes into. After lunch of Lomo Saltado, we rest a bit then take a mototaxi into town to the Plaza D'Armas. There are lots of people out enjoying the cooler late afternoon temperatures and the greenery of the park.
Today was the first day back on the bikes after almost a month and marks the turning point of heading home to Boise Idaho.
Leaving the Maquay Friends Hostel in Lima. We are headed north!
The "Serpentina" road branches off the PanAmerican and follows the coast closely. It is a toll-road and officially not allowed for bicycles, but nobody interferes when we take it. It avoids a pretty big hill up the dunes.
