to Busted Bridge Camp: almost frozen

October 4, 2016

“It’s not getting any warmer. This might be that cold snap that was predicted. Maybe it’s time to take a ride” Patrick says. Deciding to take a ride and actually getting a ride are two different things. We had reached 2600 meter summit and starting down. The temperature is -5C.

There was frost on our tent when we packed up today. It is -7C but no wind. The ride is magical with fresh frost on the hillsides, the stream meandering through the larch trees. The road, still asphalt, continually climbs, we will need to gain another 700 meters. Our fingers and toes feel frozen.

We see the women tending to the adult yaks, one woman carrying a stool sits down to milk the yak. They are not even wearing gloves. A man on a motorcycle is herding the young yaks away. We pass by a man riding a horse with a herd of horses. There is a collection of wooden buildings and a Ger and a sense that these are more permanent settlements. After a couple of hundred meters climb, we reach one with a sign on one side of the building. We stop to warm up and have a bowl of chai, this salty milk tea tastes better when very hot and you are very cold.

After this break, we reach a bridge, the asphalt ends, snow and ice begins, and the grade steepens. This last 4kms to the summit is with most of the elevation gain. We end up having to push the bikes up as well as a couple of kilometers down because of the ice on the road. We decide this is enough; we are close to hypothermia, time for a ride. But there is no other traffic except for a dump truck that is headed to a nearby workers camp. We could have sought refuge there, but by that time the walking has warmed us up a bit and we could start riding again. As we descend the temperature rises above freezing and we even get some sun.

We cross another small bridge, the asphalt returns and we are in another valley. The larch trees are gone except for high up the hillsides. The hills have rock outcroppings.

Our plan is to camp at a bridge about 69 kilometers from Tosonsengel. Just before we get there the road is blocked by a mound of dirt, traffic is diverted north into the desert, probably to either a shallow river crossing or a temporary bridge. We chance it and go around the dirt pile. When we reach the bridge it is obvious why it is closed. It looks fairly new, but one of the four or five supports has settled into the riverbed and the bridge has buckled. Another ambiguous soils report?

Because they are working on the bridge and there is quite a bit of activity we move on another kilometer and pitch our tent near the river. A dark storm cloud is approaching fast, we make camp, eat and have just zipped up the rainfly when the first sleet and snow hits. Another night for stormlines on the tent.

Morning light on the hills at our Tamarack camp.

The road goes to dirt and gets snow and ice covered as we get higher.

Too slick to ride. We walk the last couple of kilometers up and then down.

"I think this (or worse) is what this place looks like six or more months out of the year," Patrick says. A cold place.

After the downhill it warms up a bit, but not much. It is the sun that helps, as soon as there is a cloud it is freezing.

Our campspot. A dark storm is approaching.

Vodka and peach juice. Our treat this evening.

Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 23,410 km (14,538 miles)

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