to Bagua Grande: got one of those "bastard dog bastards"

March 14, 2017

"I hit one, with a back hand throw" Patrick says about two dogs that came barking at us as we rode by. It chased behind Patrick and the blind throw resulted in a satisfying yelp. "You're better with no aiming, James Hall will be proud" Rachel comments. James and Patrick had been having discussions on our guestbook about the dogs. They both admitted neither of them could hit the broad side of a barn. Check James CGOAB blog on this route: http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/12618. He came up with the "bastard dog bastards" name. We don't usually dislike dogs, but these don't deserve to live. One of them chased Rachel earlier in the day and actually bit a hole in one of her rear panniers. The Peruvians should keep their cuy (guinea pigs) as pets and eat the dogs like they do in Vietnam.

The ride was shorter than expected. We have been changing our maps around a little and today had thought the ride as being 87 kilometers long. Imagine our surprise when we rode into Bagua Grande after only 67! We keep following the Utcubamba River downstream, the first 40 kilometers pleasantly downhill. At distance marker 248, the road flattens out and then we get rolling hills. With a slight headwind, hard work. We take only one break at a small restaurant for an egg sandwich, except that they do not have bread so we provide our own and they provide the fried egg.

Googlemaps does not show it, but at one point the road abruptly climbs away from the river to get around an unstable hill. It looks like quite the climb. Coming from our way its at distance marker 268. Maps.me does show it. There is an old road that stays lower. By no means is it much easier, there is a steep section on dirt that we needed to push, but it is at least a couple of kilometers shorter then returning to the main road where there is a restaurant. Pick your poison.

When we reach the end of the Utcubamba canyon we are surprised, just like several cyclists before us, by the change of scenery. This could be South East Asia with rice paddies and palm trees. Storms are brewing but we reach Bagua Grande at noon before they break. There are many, many hotels along main street, the town is a lot larger than expected. We check-out one of the fancier ones, the Hotel Bagua Grande. They have given themselves three (!) stars on the door, so it must be good. The price is a little higher at 75 soles than what we have gotten used to, but we think it is worth it for tonight. Tomorrow will be a lot less, we are sure.

We have lunch at a Chifa nearby and while walking there meet two English cyclists going the other way. We talk and they check into the same hotel we are in. Maybe we'll go for a beer later tonight.

Tomorrow is Patrick's birthday.

Impressive rock walls along the Utcubamba canyon.

The dirt road "short-cut". It avoids a two or three hundred meters high hill. Google maps does not show it. Patrick is checking the GPS on maps.me to be sure.

Patrick discovered a package of Dutch "peperkoek" that has been on the bottom of his pannier since Lima. Totally forgot about it. It will be gone soon now.

Nice sign. Patrick would like to have it hanging in his garage workshop.

Green rice fields at the end of the Utcubamba canyon.

Hotel Bagua Grande. A bit more upscale than what we are used too, but worth it.

We meet Steve and Michelle cycling from Bogota to Lima.

Today's ride: 67 km (42 miles)
Total: 29,111 km (18,078 miles)

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