to East Portal: Route of the Hiawatha

September 4, 2019

"Maybe we can get a second breakfast in Avery" Patrick says. That's a great motivation to break camp, eat our oatmeal to get on the road. As we leave the campground we see that the campground is much bigger than we thought and has some real nice sites on its eastern side.

The road follows the cliffs along the river as we cycle upstream. This morning we see empty logging trucks. We pass the District Ranger station and reach Avery at mile 47. There is no real cafe, but the gas station/store sells breakfast burritos and breakfast egg muffins. A mile past Avery is the turnoff to the Trailhead of the Hiawatha where the road turns to gravel and a slow climb continues.

Reaching the Trailhead, we pay our $12.00 fee and the bikes are given a tag. We are told that the first 3 miles are rougher than the other 12 miles. We are again like salmon going upstream. Most bikers start at the East Portal trailhead and pretty much coast downhill. There are shuttle buses that will take you back to your car. https://www.ridethehiawatha.com/the-trail

This trail is the railbed of the Milwaukee Railroad going through 11 tunnels and over 9 trestle bridges. Along the way are historical displays. Each tunnel required the ritual of putting on our headlamps and taking off the sunglasses.

We end the trail by going through the 1.6 mile St. Paul Pass or Taft Tunnel that goes under the Bitteroot Mountains and the Idaho-Montana State Line. The tunnel is cold, wet and dark. At East Portal, there is a souvenir stand and cold drinks for sale, but no beers. We go just a stones throw from the trailhead and find a great camping spot in a grove of large trees. Patrick scours the forest for some wood for a fire and the nearby stream is great for a wash.

Just past the Huckleberry Campground we find the source of some the logging trucks.

Bridge over the St. Joe River in early morning fog.

Yeah! We have a second breakfast at Avery.

The turnoff past Avery to the Trailhead.

The first tunnel of many more once on the Hiawatha Trail.

After paying for the trail pass, we start the trail up to the East Portal trailhead.

Historic photo of Chinese workers on the railroad.

Across a trestle bridge. The original wooden trestle's were only short lived and quickly replaced with steel structures and a concrete railroad bed.

Across the valley looking at more trestle bridges.

Historic photo of a rowdy settlement that once existed at the far end of the loop.

Interesting display on how these trestles were built.

Entrance to the St. Paul Pass or Taft Tunnel, 1.6 miles long.

Just below East Portal trailhead we find a great camping spot in the pines.

Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 91 miles (146 km)

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Scott AndersonThis is a first, as far as I know of. I’ve never heard of anyone riding the Route of the Hiawatha uphill. Well done!
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3 years ago

Rachel and Patrick HugensIf theres ever a time to go uphill, a railway bed iscthe time.
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3 years ago