Day 77: Prizren to Peje

May 3, 2023

Headwind and a busy road

“I can take the lead now to break the wind,” Todd says after our lunch break. We are halfway to Peje. “This is the perfect day to be riding together,” Patrick says as the pace line continues the last half of today’s ride against a strong wind.

At 7am, we are all carrying our gear down, retrieve the bikes and load up, talk about the route out of town, and set off. Patrick leads us out of town, but he is not feeling well, so on the outskirts Rachel takes the lead in order to set the pace. The wind starts picking up, clouds threaten with rain.

Packed up and discussing route out of town.

First stop is at a bakery (Furre) spotted because of the wood stacked up outside and the smell of baking bread.

As the wind gets stronger, Patrick takes the lead. We stop for a coffee and find a place that has cappuccino again.

When we cross a bridge across a gorge we stop again for a closer look. Lots of wildflowers, a sign that we can’t read indicates this is a planned reclaimed area. The profile of today looks like this should be an easy quick day. The wind has made the “flat hill” much harder.

We see an old bridge and stop for pictures watching a sheepherder. We continue on in a pace line drafting.

Terzijski Bridge referred to as Tailors' bridge located near the village of Bishtazhin Kosovo. Example of Ottoman architecture, built over the Erenik river probably at the end the 15th century.

We had arranged to meet up with Chuck and Susan around noon at a restaurant in the city center. They then will escort us to their house. This is much easier than using what3words address (Every 3 metre square of the world has been given a unique combination of three words. Used for e-commerce and delivery, navigation, emergencies and more)

At 10am when we stop for lunch and realize we will not be there by noon. The restaurant has WiFi and we message Chuck and Susan with an update. We’ve all ordered omelets, Patrick soup and it does take a while for the food to arrive. “On the house, Albanian Food,” the waiter says bringing round flat bread and a hot skillet with peppers and cheese sauce.

We are given free "traditional Albanian food" while we wait for our omelet orders.

Todd takes over the lead and we continue on making good progress. The traffic on the narrow road is non-stop but respectful to us all in a line. “Pull over here, Todd,” Patrick shouts above the wind. Trouble with his freewheel has returned. Todd and Luciana have been giving thought to go further than Peje today getting a head start on the Pass tomorrow.

Patrick's freewheel sprockets work itself loose again.

Looking at a small rise in the road, we pull over again. “We don’t want to slow you down,” Patrick says. He is still not feeling well, and we need to go a little slower pace. We say our goodbyes and invite them to visit us in Boise. It’s been a fun time meeting up.

“Can I follow you for a while?” says Patrick and Rachel takes the lead. As we crest the small rise, boom! It’s downhill. The wind is still strong but we make a little better time and enter Peje. Close to the center, it’s chaos and a traffic jam. We reach the restaurant and there are the intrepid Chuck and Susan! Another on the road meet up!

We follow Chuck to their house they’ve been renting. They live in Skoder Albania and have to leave the country periodically. If you are ever in their area, they are legendary warmshowers hosts. Their trademark is to have guests put their handprint on the wall of the apartment.

In good fashion of hosting, we are offered a beer and then a hot shower. They have a washing machine, so clothes are washed and hung on a rack to dry. We will take a rest day tomorrow.

The evening is a delight of conversation and sharing stories and information.

On the way to the house they are renting

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Today's ride: 75 km (47 miles)
Total: 2,749 km (1,707 miles)

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