Day 35: Sightseeing in Fez

March 22, 2023

Roaming the Medina

“Balak! Andak!” yells the cart pushers to clear the way.

The medina has grown up from the banks River Qued Fez. The biggest streets for commercial shops and mosques are wide enough for two donkey’s to pass. The narrower residential streets are to protect from the sun or insulate from the cold. Unlike the Medina in Marrakesh where one has to dodge motorcycles, Fez medina is the largest car free urban area. It’s the push carts that add to the mayhem and chaos during the busy time of day. Particularly, the carts delivering to the hawanit (tiny shops) seem to be out of control going down a steep alley. The unwritten rule too is to walk on the left side. A carry-over from when donkey drivers walked on the left side of their beasts. Donkeys are still used to deliver goods.

With the twists and turns of the alleys one has to accept that you will… get …lost.

We learned that the round signs indicate the alley is a dead end or not open. Other signs are color coded: Red artisanal crafts; Brown monuments and souqs; Green palaces and gardens; Blue knowledge and learning centers. The medina has many public water taps or remnants of one that are beautiful mosaics. This system was developed in during the Almoravid period (1061-1147).

We are mostly using the Lonely Planet guidebook to do the City Walk Mazing Medina (and the source of information on this post). We also have the tablet to check the GPS to verify we are where we think we are. Many tourists have hired guides, or like us are independently wandering around looking at an electronic device. If you stop looking lost and outside tourist area, there will be someone who will point the way.

“Medina this way,” “Sheepskin tannery this way” “Chouara Tannery this way” “What are you looking for?” “First time in Morocco?” How do you like Morocco?”

#1 Bab Bou Jeloud

Yesterday the medina exploration was not a specific as today we will be more specific. The Fez Medina was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1981. We take a Red Petit Taxi for 5dh each to the Blue Gate to start the city walk. This gate is considered the “front door” was built by the French in 1913 that punched a hole in the defensive wall removing the doors that once closed and locked from the outside.

We walk through the gate to reach Talaa Kebira that is the extension of the market. To the left is produce and right downhill. The general logic of the Medina is to continue downhill. We walk through the meat market including camel head and meat.

#2 Medersa Bou Inania

Fez’s theological college built between 1351 and 1357. There is a mosque adjoining, the green tiled minaret is the one visible from the Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate).

#3 Water Clock

Once used to track pray times, the water clock was built in 1357 across from the Medersa Bou Inania. Now, only the trace of 13 wooden beams that once held brass bowls. Powered by a water cistern, a ball would drop from the window above into the bowl to chime the hour. Water clock

#4 Funduq Qaat Smen

This is where honey and smen (aged clarified butter) has been sold since 1336. We keep walking downhill.

In the Funduq Qaat Smen selling honey and butter since 1336

#5 Funduq Tazi where we see drums and pottery being made.

#6 Sheepsking Tannery

We have a bit of trouble finding Sheepskin tannery but the locals understand that this is a specific route for tourists and point the way. Historically we are told this is one of the first sheepskin tannery that is now in disrepair.

Rachel has had a continued cough from post nasal drip since the desert, pretty sure from allergies. She tries another pharmacie and gets a syrup that hopefully will stop the coughing.

"You really do make Mexican Tacos? My wife will be very happy," Patrick says. As the restaurant next to the pharmacy is Nacho Mamas. He will be serving lunch in about an hour and a half, so we continue our city walk and return later for lunch.

Rachel is very happy and has been missing Mexican food, just as Patrick has been missing Chinese food. Tajines are great, but our palates are used to variety.

#7 Charabliyine Mosque

We get a good view of this mosque and continue downhill until we reach a building jutting out onto the street we turn right onto Rue Fakhrine (There is a Henna Souk and Pottery sign high on the wall)

We stop walking and for a rest and a coffee

Fuzzy photo, Rachel's camera no longer has a flash, but this photo tells a story.

#8 Henna Souq

On the left is a pretty tree shaded courtyard. The route continues down Rue Fakhrine with a jog and a right we find the Place An Nejjarine which is the center of the Carpenter district. Patrick loves the smell of cut cedar.

#9 Capenters Funduq

At the end of this area is a museum dedicated to the carpenters craft. We pay 20dh each to enter and we can only take pictures of the courtyard, not of the exhibits. Then we back track and didn’t pay much attention to #10 Zawiya of Moulay Idriss II as non-muslims cannot enter and turn right on Talaa Kebira. This marks the beginning of the Qissariat, the covered souqs. This street deadends at #11 Medersa El Attarine. Somewhere here is #12 Kairaouine Mosque and University that non-muslims cannot enter.

Eventually we are back to #14 Funduq Seffarine by hearing the sounds of pounding of brass and copper pots. We now kinda know where we are as we found this square yesterday.

We still need to find the Chouara Tannery. After a few blind allies we see the sign.

At the end of the day we finally found the large Tannery. And not without much coaxing from the locals pointing the direction. To get to the view of the tannery, it’s a maze of leather shops of boots, jackets, purses and belts to walk through to get to a balcony.

This tannery has operated since the 16th Century and involves heavy physical labor. The dyes colors are organic but it seems mixes with pigeon scat and lime. After viewing the vats of dye from above, taking pictures and somewhat listening to the attempt of being told the process involved, we explain we are not interested in buying any of the leather products.

“Did we just get a "tsjonge-jonge-jonge" a from the shop owner?” Rachel asks as we leave the shops connected to the Tannery. We try to explain we are on bicycle and cannot carry anything extra.

We are tired after all the walking and find our way back to the Riad to rest.

It's an a-maz-ing thing...we found the nougat salesmen again

Around 6pm we take a petite taxi back to the blue gate to have dinner once again at the Chinese Restaurant. There’s a nice couple from Japan at the next table that we have a nice conversation. “When I was young,” she says, “I backpacked around America.” The man is also an architect. In the 5 weeks we’ve travelled in Morocco, we’ve been the only travelers staying at places. We enjoyed sharing experiences with them.

The medina is very busy as darkness falls. Perhaps because the first day of Ramadan starts tomorrow. We’ve had a full day and head back to our place.

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Andy PeatI've been enjoying following your journal. Waiyeng and I were in Morocco in October so it's been great recognising a few of the places we saw - Marakesh, Essouria and Fez. Waiyeng had a look in the Chinese restaurant you were at and we sat at the cafe opposite for a coffee every day. Would love to go back by bike and spend a bit longer there. At least long enough to get tired of Tajines.
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