Day 24: Alnif to Rissani

March 11, 2023

Landscapes and Camels

“Un Bon Bon,” Rachel swears she heard the white camel say as it looked up and took a step trotted toward us. But maybe that’s a desert mirage.

There is no need to start out with sunglasses this morning, the sun is just beginning to rise as we set off. Because of a changing wind forecasts, and today is our longest day yet we return to usual routine of breakfast in our room of yogurt & granola with banana. Seems strange to think of “routines” on a bike tour where daily things change. On a tour there is a tension between constant change and a desire for routine, something familiar. It’s ok to wear the same clothes day after day because you are moving. While at home we get that newness by changing clothes.

The bikes are loaded and we set off at first light. It is so quiet and peaceful, rarely a car at first. Our goal is to get to Rissani either before the wind becomes a factor or before the heat wears us down. Even though it is still early spring here too, the temperatures are already approaching 90 and the sun is strong. There is an early morning chill that dissipates once the sun is up. We spot our first few camels, not sure if they are wild or domesticated.

Patrick is carrying the bag Rachel usually carries and a box of juice. It was a welcome break to reach Balou where we stop at a café near the gas station. Along with the juice, we have a great café au lait. We still have a long way to go today.

First cafe we've seen, first break with an excellent Cafe au lait.

The landscape changes many times during the day. When we pass a palmeria on one side of road with groves of palm trees and greenery, the contrast of brown rocky dirt or sand is striking. A similar contrast of the starkness of the Riads where on the outside looks unimpressive and inside beautiful courtyards. Patrick says it’s the opposite of what Westerners do, spending more time making the outside of the houses decorative.

Later down the road, a herd of camels are crossing the road. A camel with her young begin to cross the road in front of Rachel and she navigates around them.

The sequence pictures of Rachel getting around the camels.

She indicates a need for water so we stop. Patrick gives her water, then she asks for food and money

A second stop for a break is at a stark store, only apple juice to offer. The shop owner brings out a table and two chairs for us. "How do you like Morocco?" he asks. People are curious how we find their country. Patrick, again answers, "the people are wonderful."

The sun is getting stronger and so far the wind has not been a factor.

We see more camels as we near the town. It is a welcome site to get to the junction with RN13 so we know we are nearing Rissani.

Patrick carried the bag with the sleeping bags that Rachel usually carries. Thank you Patrick

Rissani is the ancient capital of Tafilalet. Its location as a crossroads between north and south gave the city a certain importance in previous times.

A former major caravan center, Rissani remains a major commercial center in the region, with a large souk, particularly lively on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. It is noted for its leather and goat skin trading. Tomorrow is Sunday and a short day for us, so we will have an opportunity to see the market.

Patrick navigates us to Hotel Panorama. There is an issue with the bikes being not allowed in the rooms. We unload everything, Patrick carries gear up two flights of stairs to the room and the bikes are locked to a railing outside. The promise is the bikes will be locked in the café overnight. We've seen more people on bikes in this town, and wonder if locking bikes is a strange concept to them.

The room has the cleanest pressed white sheets Rachel has ever seen. The shower and bathroom are not part of the room, but we seem to be the only guests. We have a beef tajine complete (meaning we get a salad of finely chopped tomatoes, green peppers, cucumber and red onion) bread and fruit. Need we mention also the mandatory olives?

Intersection in front of the Hotel, one view

Patrick counted 15 mosques. We were told Rissani is the most Islamic city of Morocco.

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Today's ride: 95 km (59 miles)
Total: 890 km (553 miles)

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Bill ShaneyfeltAll those wonderful layers of sedimentary rocks makes me want to go look for fossils!
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1 year ago

Rachel and Patrick HugensWe found some today and will be looking for more tomorrow. When we get home we will mail you one.
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1 year ago