March 3, 2023
Day 16: Telouet to Ait Benhaddou
Spectacular down the Ounila River Valley
”Up until today’s ride, I had my doubts about ‘Exotic’ Morocco, that it existed only in my imagination,” Rachel says then continues, “Today though is spectacular.” We are following the Ounila River down the valley. Of course, it’s never all downhill.
We arrange breakfast that is included in the room price for 0800. As Patrick carries gear down and starts reloading the bikes, Rachel double checks that nothing is left behind in the room. On the stairs going down another cyclist appears carrying his bike down but he doesn’t return Rachel’s hello and downstairs waves off the woman who is serving breakfast, and poof he is gone heading toward the pass. He must have been the grumpiest cyclist we have ever met. Breakfast is very nice: an omelet, bread with multiple jams/honey, the mandatory olives and tea.
Be prepared for lots of pictures on this post. Commentary cannot do the pictures justice to the ride through the Ounila Valley, so we show you in photos. We’ve taken almost three hundred today, so processing, editing and selecting will take some effort.
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We have 7km mostly uphill, then the road starts down again. The sky is blue, there is very little traffic, and it is quiet. Mostly downhill but there are some wicked hills. Usually at a high point a view of the town, then dropping down through the town and then back up. “I’m glad this hasn’t been all downhill,” Patrick says, “I would have missed some shots.” We pass though several small towns, all set scenically against the canyon walls leaving the fertile ground along the river for agriculture. The road also stays up higher with beautiful views over the towns and valley. The cherry trees are blossoming. We see very few people in the towns, and not any shops open.
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Encounters on the road though are interesting: A motorcyclist tells Patrick there is a “Café de The” about 5km ahead and we stop for coffee and snacks; We meet a Romanian cyclist who stops for a chat; and a car flashes its lights and Patrick stops to talk with the driver. It is Cyril, the Swiss cyclist we met first day out. He had hurt his knee getting his bike on the bus and rented a car to see more of Morocco.
The road surface is paved with occasional washouts. Lots of white tourist vans and a series of black Landcruisers travelling together pass us in both directions. While over the years, we’ve had to change our style of cycling, we are thankful that for the most part we can still be on the bikes. Patrick has not been part of the REM (Ride Every Miles) club since meeting Rachel. We’ve looked at ourselves as travelers, predominately by bikes, but not the only mode of transportation. Some of our best experiences have been travelling like the locals. We don’t consider ourselves ready yet to travel in the black Landcruisers.
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We find the Hotel Etiole Filante D’Or and check in. We selected this hotel because the Lonely Planet guide mentioned Chinese food at the restaurant. Upon talking with the guys though it sounds like the Chinese person they had cooking left during Covid and we are back to the usual fare. Patrick carries gear up, and the bikes are safely stored in a room downstairs. Before cleaning up, we eat first we each have a turkey panini and fries. At the next table are three young men and we start up a conversation. They are from the States studying in Spain for a semester, and now on a four-day side trip with 70 kids to see Morocco. One is studying civil, one electrical and one mechanical engineering. An architect's nightmare.
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We cleanup and rest before heading out to see the Ksar. “Do you know the way? Just follow the people,” a local says. And Patrick adds to follow the souvenir shops. We find the foot bridge across the river to the Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou, an UNESCO world heritage site. We meet the three students again. “The ksar, a group of earthen buildings surrounded by high walls, is a traditional pre-Saharan habitat. The houses crowd together within the defensive walls, which are reinforced by corner towers.”
There is a winding path now fortified with souvenir shops up to the top of the Ksar. There are hoards of people, many from the white vans and buses at the bottom on a day tour. And lots of students. The views are beautiful.
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Jewish World in Morocco
We have dinner of spaghetti Bolognese and pizza in the Hotel Restaurant. This is the first Restaurant that advertised they have "beer and wine." Another example of how our style has changed, the pattern usually at the end of the day's ride, beer and potato chips. We've had potato chips but no alcohol and not missing it.
Today's ride: 46 km (29 miles)
Total: 519 km (322 miles)
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