June 6, 2023
Day 111: Verzy to Oulches la Vallee Foulone
A Great Warmshowers Eperience
Today we are headed into Reims. The French pronounce it without the R and M, and start with the sound of a dog growl (according to Nico). It seems like nobody has understood where we are headed when they asked us because we always pronounced is Reims, but it sounds like “Grrrraies” or something like that.
We head into town to see the Cathedral. At first sight it looks a bit “unfinished” because the twin steeples were not fully constructed. Cathedrals were built on pretty shaky foundations and often construction had to be altered or stopped because the tall heavy parts started to settle or sag. Not sure why, but these towers end kinda “stumpy”. The history of the “Reims Cathedral is where the kings of France were crowned. The cathedral hosted thirty-three sovereign coronations in just over 1000 years! The cathedral also hosted the baptism of Clovis around the year 498, and so kingdom of the Franks was born. This made Reims the chosen city to crown kings.” We take turns walking around the church and watching the bikes, then find a bakery for some very expensive coffee.
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An elevator takes us back on the trail along the canal. Our canal ends though at a T junction at Berry de Lac, from there we go cross-country. Nico had warned us about this section of about 3km of single track in the tall grass. That means hills in these parts.
It is all worth it though; we end up with some of the best Warmshowers hosts we have come across. Philippe and his wife retired to this small village with 82 people. They have a nice house and a beautiful garden. We had said we’d arrive early, until the hills slowed us down, and they must have been waiting with lunch. After our arrival and cleanup, Philippe BBQ’s up some nice sausage and chicken, Marie-Eve has fixed a nice potato dish and salad.
Since the lunch was late we take a nap, and then eat more food for dinner, together with champagne and wine. A Belgium neighbor who speaks excellent English also comes over. He is a retired architect and it seems the work experiences in Belgium are exactly the same as in the US. We have a very nice evening in a beautiful spot in rural France.
Today's ride: 61 km (38 miles)
Total: 4,642 km (2,883 miles)
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