Day 105: Mulhouse to L'Isle sur les Doubs

May 31, 2023

We are Salmon on the EV 6

“All these houses look alike, they were probably the house of lock keeper at one time,” Patrick says as we are following EV6 on the stretch with 44 locks (so we were told). There is a number on the houses but we didn't notice until later.

Pierre is up earlier than us and helping Anna organize coffee, oats bread and cheese for breakfast. By 0800, when Anna leaves for work as a music teacher of children, we already have loaded our bikes and head out soon afterward. We find a bike path to pick up the EV6. The route is marked well with signs except easily lost when going through a city.

Pierre and Sophie also with Anna as WS guests are doing this loop.

This will be the last day of following the EV6. We gain elevation slowly at each lock. At one lock we watch a boat go through the locks. “Stay and watch the lock refill with water” translated from French. Rather than a lock keeper at the lock, it seems there is a guy who drives to each one to raise/lower the water.

"You can stay and watch the water rise," he says at the lock and then drives off. Probably to the next lock for the boat that just passed through.

See the pill boxes on the left from WWII

At 1005, we pass by this cafe with signs that they open at 1000. But just barely, we get coffee but they sell nothing else until 1100.

We are the salmon on the EV6, many cyclists are going downstream in the opposite direction from us. In France, many are friendly unlike past countries we’ve gone through, saying hello or Bonjour.

We come across a German guy on a bike pulling a tiny camping trailer. We stop to talk with him. He sounds like an engineer; the trailer and trike are covered with solar panels, he has lots of battery storage and a powerful electric motor onhis trike to help him down the road. Another cyclist, a Brit, who had stopped also comes over to talk. Then “Hi Jim” he says as another cyclist joins us. Jim is Canadian and they had met on previous days on the trail. Soon, another touring couple stops also curious about the bike and trailer.

We enjoy the day, looking at the lock houses each one differently decorated, we see cranes on the water, boats mostly anchored in villages, everyday life of those who live by the locks. Although we are gaining elevation, this is countered with a great tailwind. The last section of our route today is between the Doubs River and the Rhone-Rhine canal. There are cliffs and lots of forest.

In L’Isle sur les Doubs we make a quick stop at the grocery store, then backtrack to the campground on the river. There is already another cycling couple camping, later in the afternoon several more arrive.

“Don’t expect toilet paper to be provided in France,” Patrick says. “There is a vending machine with toilet paper for 70cents.” Rachel has carried toilet paper packed in the US and carried since Casablanca. “Don’t expect toilet seats either, they used to be squat toilets,” he continued. The campground is a nice place though, shade, grass and good facilities.

Patrick sitting in the chair for the second time this tour that Rachel has carried from Casablanca

Hunter, from Canada quit his job to cycle tour from London to Istanbul

We walk back to town in the evening and find a friendly kebab place. While we are eating we meet Hunter, a Canadian cyclist on his way to Istanbul. We give him some advice on what we know about the route and how to easily get into the city on a bike.

This is our last day on the EV 6.

Heart

Comment

Link

Today's ride: 81 km (50 miles)
Total: 4,216 km (2,618 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	8
Comment on this entry	Comment	0