Day 1: Antelope Wells to Hachita

May 27, 2022

A brutal first day with the heat

“Look even the cows are finding shade already,” Rachel says looking at a calf under a bush standing in what little shade offered. After two days driving, we are 20 miles from Antelope Wells to start the tour.

We again are up early and eat breakfast at Denny’s in Lordsville. The drive to the border at Antelope Wells is about 1.5 hours and over the road we will ride. Sometimes it is nice to get a preview, and sometimes it’s better not knowing. Today was on the nice side.

When we arrive at the border, there is another cyclist just getting his gear together. Trevan from AZ has 5 weeks to cycle the route. Frans and Petra help us get organized and take the mandatory pictures of the border sign of Antelope Wells. Then they are off with the teardrop and will take about a week to get back to Boise. Their coming over to stay to house and cat sit has really helped with the logistics for this ride.

Cyclist, watch out for the cattle guards

Soon we are off at 08:40 riding north and after a few miles Frans and Petra pass us. The landscape is filled with a variety of cactus and mountains in the distance. We see empty water bottles and old backpacks at the side of the road. The road is excellent and mostly an imperceptible incline, a gentle wind sometimes helps us. Trevan catches up with us and rode with Patrick for awhile. His plan is to ride to Separ today.

By 10:30 and 18 miles we take a food break. The temperature is warming and there is no shade. The next 15 or so miles gradually become a struggle for Rachel. Usually it is Patrick that has trouble with the heat. Rachel stops to lie under the smallest bush available but not completely in the shade to try to get some relief. By mile 36.4, again trying to hide under a bush, she is nauseous and leg cramps start. It’s close to 1pm and even with a gentle tailwind, Rachel needs a ride the last 8 miles. This will let Patrick ride a faster pace and out of the heat quicker.

Patrick flags down a Border Patrol truck and the agent agrees to give Rachel a ride to Hachita Community Center. He helps Patrick load the bike and gear, then, while walking back to Rachel mixes an electrolyte drink in a small cold bottle of water. He has his stuff in the front seat, so Rachel rides in the back with the caged windows. And 10 minutes later, he pulls up to the Community Center and there is a “welcoming committee”. Trevan is outside along with another cyclist, Rob from Maine. They help unload the bike and gear, carry all inside and give Rachel a “tour” of the center. There’s a kitchen with microwave and refrigerator, stove and some dishes. There is running water and toilet, so it’s a sponge bath tonight. Rachel does a quick wash and change of clothes.

About an hour rest, Rachel walks to the store and sees Patrick riding into town. He rides all the way to the store and we pick up cokes and Gator aide. Patrick says, “My odometer showed 120F”. That’s because being constantly in the sun, the air temperature got up to at least 98F. "I pushed hard, 13mph then realized I was pushing too hard with this heat."

We visit with Trevan and Rob and about an hour later, a Finish couple arrive. The girl is not feeling well from the heat. She recovers after a rest on the cot and in front of one of 3 fans in the building. They had flown into El Paso the day before yesterday and ridden in from Columbus today.

When Patrick returnes to the store for more Gator Aid and to pay the $20 fee for the us to stay in the Community Center, he meets Jeffery Sharp, the Bike Ranch owner. We had originally planned to stay at his place, but he was very busy today shuttling people around. Rob, had also flown into El Paso and cycled in two days to Hachita has arranged a ride to the border tomorrow morning so he will start the route from Antelope Wells and continue onto Separ tomorrow. Trevan is waiting out the heat of the day and will continue onto to Separ tonight. We have a nice first night out on the road visiting with other cyclists.

After all the planning this past winter, our first day of cycling has prompted us to change plans. Our plan now is to go to Separ tomorrow and camp at the convenience store. Then take two days to ride to Silver City camping at White Signal campground.

Frans and Petra pass us...we are on our own now.

Wide open spaces, long roads, Trevan riding with Patrick

Food break, not much shade and it is hot

Finding old backpacks along the way, how many people have tried to make the journey across the border and this desert?

The point that Rachel was having leg cramps and nausea

Welcoming committee at the Hachita Community Center: Trevan from AZ and Rob from Maine

What cyclists do best...share information

Patrick finds the cot in the community center to rest

Finnish couple arrive, Noora and Otso. Noora not feeling well from heat exhaustion. Patrick gives her the cot and places in front of the fan.

Group pic before Trevan sets off for Separ: Otso and Noora, the Fins, Trevan, Rob and us

Trevan leaves for Separ after the temperature cools down

Today's ride: 46 miles (74 km)
Total: 46 miles (74 km)

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Ron SuchanekRough first day! Glad you were able to get a ride and have a cool place to stay, and are flexible with your plans. We had a similar issue early on our trip with unseasonably hot weather and storms and had to make alternative plans.
As Mike Tyson said, everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonUgh. Be careful with that heat, and kee0 pumping those electrolytes in. It doesn’t look like it’s warming up any time soon.
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2 years ago

Rachel and Patrick HugensTo Ron SuchanekThanks Ron, yes changing plans and adapting is all part of cycle touring as you two know.
That and keep moving down the road however necessary. You'll see tomorrow's post soon. The cycling went great the second day, the place to stay in Separ not so much and Patrick was having trouble with the heat....we changed plans again, got a ride to Demming. Taking a recovery day and will cycle to Silver City tomorrow and get back on track out of the heat.
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2 years ago

Rachel and Patrick HugensTo Scott AndersonThanks Scott and hi to Rachael. All part of cycle touring, remaining adaptable and keep on moving.
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2 years ago

Jeanna & Kerry SmithWe're looking forward to following your trip. We haven't read many Great Divide journals and yours are so full of detail and pictures we really feel as if we're going along - even when we're going someplace else as the same time!
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2 years ago