Torla-Ordesa to Aínsa

May 15, 2024

We were the first down to breakfast at 7:30 (this hotel caters to hikers) but not by much. The goal was to fuel ourselves for the climbing ahead and make sure the hunger pangs would hold off until 2.

It looks like a great spread! I’d give it a high score because this is the first place on this trip that’s had meusli (granola would have been better) but they lost points because the croissants were stale.

The beverage area offered orange juice and not-so-great coffee. The machine to the right of Al has one spigot for coffee (basic drip stuff poured in the top) and one for hot milk.

We’ve been bumping into a couple from Yukon (in a small village in the Pyrenees!), here for hiking, and said goodbye this morning as we headed off for different activities in different directions.

Our first stop was soon after we joined the N-260a, to put on more layers. It was cold and we were descending to Broto. We didn’t bother going to look at the waterfall because we were too chilled to care.

The next stop was our decision point—should we ride up and over Col de Fanlo, knowing the road through the Anisclo Canyon was closed and there would be another climb on the detour, or should we stick to N-260a to join N-260 at Fiscal and take that to Aínsa? According to RWGPS, this option would involve 2/3 less climbing and be 12 km shorter as well—it was the really-bad-weather choice. Of course we chose Col de Fanlo.

The first few km were rolling, with a lot of descending included in the average grades shown on the signs, so the uphill parts were actually steeper. With 3 km to go, we still had a lot of elevation to gain.

There were some switchbacks descending from Col de Fanlo

View of the canyon we can’t ride into, from the overlook thoughtfully provided

Flower of the day! I know, same kind as two photos up.

It’s a classified climb up the way we will be going down.

I’d like to see an ibex (not running across the road right in front of me, of course) but I really don’t want to see any snow.

Soon after I took that last photo, the rain began. At first, just occasional drops like we’d had on the descent from Col de Fanlo, but then it intensified. It was a long descent and by the time we reached Escalona, we had decided a hot lunch was in order. We pulled in to the first place that was open and seemed reasonable (and had a covered place to lean our bikes) and we both decided on the menu del dia. It was a lot more food than expected and perhaps not the best decision, given that we’d opted for half board at our hotel tonight. In any case, we sat and ate and tried to warm up.

My first course: Aragonese salad. It seemed like the preferable option, but had tuna and way too much raw onion for me. Al had some, including all the tuna, after polishing off his lentil stew.

We both had non-photogenic chicken for the second course, but dessert was most definitely plated for pictures. My yogurt cake with mango and blackberry.

After lunch, we rode as quickly as possible the last 10 km to the Hotel Dos Rios in Aínsa. I chose this place based on Lyle’s rave review. Having just finished the dinner included in our half-board, I agree with Lyle.

Before dinner, though, we made a short explore of the old town and castello:

Kings of Sobrarbe. Until today, I’d never heard of this kingdom.

View of Aínsa-Sobrarbe from the castle wall

In Aínsa-Sobrarbe, the old town. Nice to see the artisanal beer revolution has come to Spain!

These guys obviously weren’t staying at Hotel Dos Rios

We were still full from our big, late lunch—though 2 pm isn’t late for lunch in Spain. So we had dinner later than usual for us, and chose dishes we hoped might be smaller than we’d otherwise choose. It was a three-course menu del dia that was included in our half-board, complete with a bottle of wine. We didn’t finish the wine and never touched the bread (us, who usually wipe our plates clean with the

My first course: grilled artichokes. I’d never had artichokes that didn’t come out of a jar. Al ate a couple after he finished his vichyssoise.

My second course: grilled lamb with vegetables and potatoes. I thought this would be smaller; you never get much when you order lamb at home. Al had some lamb (his cod dish really was small) and the potatoes got left.

Dessert, of course, disappeared completely. Neither of us shared.

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Today's ride: 56 km (35 miles)
Total: 488 km (303 miles)

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John VincentWhile you are cycling the Pyrenees from West to East, we are cycling your 2016 route, for the most part, from East to West through France, currently in Comprodon. We live in Victoria and are friends of the Classens and Mathers. Reach out to us if you wish at ebikestouring@gmsil.com. Yes, we E-bike tour in Europe. We are not as young and tough as you are.
John and Darlene
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7 months ago

Jacquie GaudetTo John VincentOf course, my route was based on one from Team Anderson!
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7 months ago

John SaxbyHi Jacquie, Hugely enjoying your journal, and especially the splendid photographs. All the photos are superb, but I think I've enjoyed the flowers most of all.
Your words and pictures bring back fond memories: in 2011, our daughter and I spent a couple of weeks hiking the trail from Panticosa through Torla-Odesa and towards Bielsa. She had studied in Barça, so we finished our safari there.
Safe journeys to you and Al,
John
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6 months ago

Jacquie GaudetTo John SaxbyThanks, John. That must have been a wonderful trip with your daughter!
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6 months ago