Sant Llorenç de Morunys to Sant Joan de les Abadesses

May 21, 2024

A straightforward ride today, through pleasant but not outstanding scenery. Very few photos taken!

At the summit of the first climb, on the way to Berga

The first part of the descent was through a tunnel—with cobbled surface. I was glad I’d put my headlight on for it.

Today we returned to places we’d seen before, I on my solo tour from Barcelona to Bilbao and Al on his club ride from Biarritz to Girona. The VVV guys stayed a night in Berga and then rode to Girona via Ripoll, Olot, and Banyoles (on light road bikes, with support vehicle). Al didn’t really recognize the road until we came to where quiet C-26 joined busy C-17, just south of Ripoll. That he remembered.

Today, though, we didn’t go into Berga. We stayed on a road that contoured around the hillside above the city and felt no need to descend further, having already enjoyed 10 km of thrilling descent.

We had started the day with granola and yogurt in our room (breakfast in bed because there was no table) and no coffee. This was a well-deserved coffee stop in Vilada, 30 km into the day.

They only had tapas and we needed a bit of food, so it was a great opportunity to try patates bravas. Yum! They would be better with beer than with café con leche, though.

Flower of the day. I saw many of these on the second climb and getting a photo is a good excuse for a break from pedalling.

By the time we got to the last summit, we could see the dark clouds in the distance, heading our way. We decided not to stop in Ripoll but to keep going. We figured we’d make it to our destination dry. And we did.

We arrived hungry, though, so decided to get a meal before checking in, because we could (it was 3:15). In small-town Spain, we eat when we can!

In 2016, I had done a day ride from Olot through Sant Joan de les Abadesses to Ripoll and back to Olot. I recognized parts of Sant Joan. I especially recognized the Iglesia de Sant Pol. Not much of it is still standing but the tower with the bells is the part I remember best. I went to see it as soon as we were settled in, hoping to hear the bells at 6. Six o’clock passed and no bells. So I walked a bit and found the monastery church and, behind it, the (open!) tourist office. I asked about the bells and the helpful woman made a call. All the bells ring at noon (this is what I’d seen and heard by chance in 2016) and the big bell alone rings at 8.

Iglesia de Sant Pol doesn’t look particularly interesting, other than that there’s a lot missing. According to the adjacent info sign, the current structure was built after the consecration of the monastery in 1150 and badly damaged in the earthquake of 1428 so that restoration was required. It had a single nave and 3 semicircular apses. The church served as the town parish until 1861, having been enlarged in the 18th C with the addition of 2 baroque buildings. Damaged structures (no indication of how damage occurred) were removed around 1970 and the façade and altarpiece restored.

It wasn’t my eye that was caught in 2016, it was the bells. I passed by just at noon and first one bell started ringing, then others joined in, each with its own pitch and forming a harmonious whole. I went back to capture the one bell ringing at 8 so you’ll have to use your imagination.

A bit of research told me that the town was built around the Benedictine Monastery of Sant Joan de les Abadesses, founded in 887 and the first female monastery in Catalunya. However, in 1017, the nuns, accused of violating the rules by which they were supposed to be living, were expelled in a bull by Pope Benedict VIII. Local legend is that a Comte Arneau seduced the abbess.

This expulsion initiated a period of instability that lasted until the re-establishment of canons of the order of Saint Augustine in the 12th century. The new Augustinian monks largely rebuilt the monastery, including new churches for the monastery itself and the parish of Saint Pol.

Photos from my early and later walkabouts:

The chapel and bell tower, Iglesia de Sant Pol

The monastery church. Unfortunately, it was not open to visit.

The ruins of Sant Miquel de la Infermeria, a chapel used by the sick and infirm (monks?) who could not attend mass in the main church. I rather liked the terrace of the house on top.

The stone bridge was built to replace an earlier version that was destroyed in the 1428 earthquake. It was dynamited by retreating Republicans near the end of the Civil War in 1939 and rebuilt in 1976.

This beautiful building was built to provide housing for workers at the Espona textile factory in 1896. It is now apartments for seniors.

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Today's ride: 84 km (52 miles)
Total: 817 km (507 miles)

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Carolyn van HoeveHi Jacquie, when planning this route I was wondering if the C-26 was quiet, so good to know it is! It's been very helpful following along with you and double checking all my mapping. It really sounds like you've had some fantastic riding. Very excited. Seems you might also be staying in Hotelet de Sant Joan in Sant Joan de les Abadesses? Are you happy with it?
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6 months ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Carolyn van HoeveHi Carolyn! The Hotelet Sant Joan was fine, friendly proprietor, good bike storage (a bit smelly but bikes don’t mind), excellent location. Our room was very warm; we prefer cooler than 23°C when it’s cool outside. Bed was softer than we like but that seems common in the area as that had been the case in the last several accommodations.

Currently in Girona in an apartment with a firmer mattress!
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6 months ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Carolyn van HoeveOh yeah—the only really uncomfortable road has been the bit of highway we rode into Girona. It had a very good shoulder so wasn’t unsafe, just unpleasant.
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6 months ago

Carolyn van HoeveThanks Jacquie - great info!
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6 months ago