May 30, 2024
In Tarascon-sur-Ariège
Grotte de Niaux
When I was planning this trip, staring at the map and wondering which way to go to get from Collioure to the high Pyrenees, I noticed Grotte d3 Niaux on the map near a tiny road highlighted in green and labelled “route des corniches”. Those both sounded intriguing.
Visits to Grotte de Niaux must be booked in advance and there is only one tour per day in English. The cave is “neither developed nor lit” and visitors get to see authentic paintings, not facsimiles. I bought our tickets in February, as soon as I knew our dates in Tarascon.
It’s also a rest day, so we didn’t eat breakfast at the earliest possible time and then just relaxed until it was time to get ready and go for our 1:15 tour. The site is about 6 km out of town, uphill of course. I’d created a route with RWGPS but hadn’t reviewed it carefully as I usually do. Oops.
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The last couple of km to the Grotte were steep and we were both very warm and damp (from sweat and drizzle) when we arrived, in plenty of time to cool off, dig out our extra layers, and lock our bikes.
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Photography is forbidden inside with any kind of device so you’ll have to visit for yourself. It’s an experience not to miss if you’re in the area.
The paintings are concentrated in the “salon noir” which is about a km in. The cave extends much further, but the visit only goes that far. Each visitor is provided with a (not very bright) flashlight to see their footing, while the guide has a brighter light to show the paintings.
After our tour, I took a few more photos of the reception area.
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I meant to take a photo for flower of the day but it started to rain as we started our ride back to our accommodation so I didn’t. It’s a rest day, after all!
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No photos of tonight’s dinner but this is what we had:
- Aperitif of sambuc (not sambuca). Sambuc is an ariégeois product and is delicious! It was accompanied by canapés of smoked trout.
- Leek soup
- Trout with toasted slivered almonds, risotto, and green salad
- Cheese from Massat, our host’s home village (near which we will be staying tomorrow)
- Dessert that included strawberries, raspberry vinegar, whipped cream, and something with a little crunch.
- All of the latter accompanied by a local rosé wine
Needless to say, everyone at the table, Al and me and 5 French motorcyclists cleaned our plates!
Today's ride: 13 km (8 miles)
Total: 1,273 km (791 miles)
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