In Collioure - Looping the Pyrenees - CycleBlaze

May 26, 2024

In Collioure

We put Collioure on the itinerary because we both had fond memories of visiting here in 1992. It was the last stop on our September 1992 cycling tour; from here we rode to Perpignan and took an overnight train to Paris to spend a couple of days before flying home. We didn’t do a multi-week tour again until 2015, so we remembered Collioure fairly well, considering it has been almost 32 years.  The thing we both remembered best was the lovely pathway between the campground just northwest of Collioure along the water to Collioure itself.   This walk to the quiet beach near the campground was the afternoon plan. 

 The morning plan was to visit the Sunday market, which we knew about because of the road closure signs near our apartment. Dinner last night had been both expensive and disappointing so we had decided to eat in. We scored!  I have read many times in the Grampies’ journals about the rotisserie chickens (and accompanying potatoes) available at French markets and today was our opportunity. We bought a chicken, some potatoes, some fresh French beans, and a lovely dessert, plus bread and cheese for lunch. I picked up some wine and sparkling water at the nearby Carrefour while Al lubed the bike chains. 

The local tomatoes at the market looked fantastic! They were huge and oh so ripe!
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Delectable offerings at this stall. We bought a slice of the tarte framboise (back left) to share for dessert.
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Shopping done and delivered to the apartment fridge, we enjoyed coffee with a view.
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After lunch, we packed our swimsuits, finally also using the backpack Al’s been carrying, and headed off to find the waterfront path. We had walked some of it last night and earlier today, where it went around the Château Royal (which I remember being called the Templar castle, but no mention of Knights Templar today).  But the path ended at the jetty just past the church.  We remembered it continuing all the way around.  So we dutifully followed the streets closest to the water, up and down, thinking this was not the almost-level path we both remembered. Finally, through a parking lot at the top of a hill, we saw a sign for the “sentier littoral”. 

This pretty street was a dead end
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On the left of the above photo. I thought it was so cute—about a dozen vines in two rows, complete with a rose bush at the end of one.
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Utility building covered in a mural. Collioure was once a haven for artists. I’m not sure whether it still is as it’s very touristy now, noticeably more so than in 1992.
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Finally on the path labelled “sentier littoral”. We don’t remember this view at all. The complex in the foreground is the Centre National d’Entraînement Commando. We had also seen signs at the Palais Royal indicating the commandos trained out of there too.
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The path we remember didn’t look at all like this!
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Down there we finally saw remains of the lovely seaside path we’d come to walk again.
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More of it
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And a big more. We are wondering why it wasn’t rebuilt after, presumably, being badly damaged in a storm sometime between 1992 and now.
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There’s the beach down there, with the campground still operating behind it on the left. Sadly, it’s no longer a flat easy walk to town.
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Having carried our swimsuits across Spain and arrived at a Mediterranean beach, we both went for a dip. This required some gymnastics because this beach had no change houses or washrooms and we only had a small towel and washcloth between us for modesty. The water was nice. 

Behind Al, you can see people on the current trail descending to the beach, along with what’s left of thd beginning of the old seaside path to town.
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So sad that our favourite memory of Collioure is only a memory.
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I tracked our walk on Strava. The map shows a dashed line where the path used to be.
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I took many flower photos on the walk. Bougainville was going to be my flower of the day because we’ve seen it so far this trip only in Collioure, but it seems I forgot to photograph any. So here are the contenders, which I will caption one of these days. 

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Bill ShaneyfeltPrickly pear.

https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/47902-Opuntia/browse_photos?place_id=6753
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5 months ago
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Bill ShaneyfeltLooks like bugloss.

https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/76764-Echium-plantagineum
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5 months ago
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Bill ShaneyfeltBears breeches
https://www.wildflowersprovence.fr/plant/acanthus-mollis/
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5 months ago
Heart 3 Comment 1
Bill ShaneyfeltA tough one! Maybe some kind of thistle or knapweed... so many look so similar!

https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/71180-Centaurea-aspera/browse_photos
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5 months ago
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Bill ShaneyfeltMaybe Scabious?
https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/129115-Knautia-arvensis
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5 months ago
Rate this entry's writing Heart 10
Comment on this entry Comment 1
Steve Miller/GrampiesWe hope the chicken and potatoes lived up to expectations. Too bad your beach path is now but a memory, although you did get there in the end.
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5 months ago