Well, our first spat today, although I’m not sure if Al even noticed. Last night I had looked at the planned route for today and noticed a climb I hadn’t noticed when I plotted it, probably because it looked so small on the profile compared to today’s main event. But last night and today I’m feeling tired, so an extra 200 metres climbing isn’t appreciated. However, when I tried to suggest maybe taking the valley road, busier but equipped with a narrow bike lane and a lot flatter, he didn’t even listen. So off we went on narrow, scenic D44, with grades significantly steeper than the average 5.5% predicted by RWGPS. At least the weather was perfect.
After an unsuccessful foray into Bagneres-de-Luchon, referred to on almost all distance and directional signs as simply “Luchon” to find some hydration tablets without caffeine, it was off up to Col de Peyresourde.
I’m not sure how they calculate the average grade as posted on these signs. I used to think it was the average of the coming km, but these two follow exactly the same route for further than that. Then I thought it might be the average grade from the sign location to the top, but the math doesn’t work. I remain mystified.
Flower of the day, Geranium pyrenaicum. I’m a couple of days behind and surprised to discover that I photographed this at the top of Col de Peyresourde and again at the top of the next day’s big climb. But this is the only flower photo I took all day.
Unfortunately, just past this sign we encountered the first “gravillons” warning sign. For those who don’t know, it means gravel, but in this context, it refers to the fine gravel used by French road repair crews. Yes, chipseal patches. These random areas of, essentially, camouflaged ball bearings, took the joy out of what would have been a fine descent.
The valley road, when we got there, had no gravillons but did have a headwind. Luckily we were still descending, but it just doesn’t seem right to have to pedal downhill if you’re not racing.
The solution to arriving too early to check in is often a beer in the plaza.
The Neste de Louron flows through Arreau, but it’s not the only river in town. Arreau is “at the confluence of the Aure and Louron Nestes” and developed because of the water flowing through it. The Louron Neste had around 20 mills in the past, “for flour, wood, tanning, and pulling (wool treatment), but these are now gone.” The Aure Neste was navigable and used for transporting goods. [From the English version on an info sign in the town.]
The “ensemble mairie-halle” was built in 1932 on top of the 16th C market. The weekly market happens below and administration is upstairs. When I was here in July 2016, there was a travelling museum of antique bikes in a room upstairs. Nothing during our stay this year.
When I went for a walkabout in the afternoon, along with taking some photos, I wanted to investigate dinner options. I really wanted to eat at the restaurant where I’d eaten an excellent late lunch (I don’t remember many meals 8 years later) but a sugn on the door said it didn’t open in the evening (outside of school holidays) unless they’d received at least one reservation by 4 p.m. It was 5:30 when I saw this and I had no way to know whether or not they would open at 7. There was no action inside.
Another potential dinner spot was closed all month for holidays, so that left the place we’d had our beers and the hotel restaurant if L’Arbizon didn’t open. When we came by a little after 7, it was still shut tight so we were down to 2 options. Our only objection to the hotel restaurant was the price: 35€ for entrée, plat, and dessert. Skipping dessert would bring it down to 33€ so we wouldn’t do that! However, having a proper meal at the beer place would be just as expensive, so the hotel restaurant it was.
The meal was excellent. We both had a green pea soup with croutons, ham, and Parmesan, excellent pasta with pesto, sautéed vegetables, pine nuts, and olives, but different desserts. Wine was by the standard bottle or a glass, so we limited ourselves to one glass each.
