Bossost, Spain to Bagneres-de-Luchon, France

September 26, 2022

We made it back to France, almost a year to the day we left the west coast of France at Hendaye for Hondarribia, Spain! It's great to be back. But I am getting a bit ahead of myself, let's start with this morning.

As we've mentioned, it's cool here in the mountains, 8C at 9am, so after granola, oranges and coffees, we left at 11am hoping that the chill was out of the air. Thankfully the sun was shining so it wasn't long before the jackets came off. Today's ride is a short one, only 20km but there is a col to traverse, the Col du Portillon as we cross into France. It's 9km up and 9km down! After spinning upwards for an hour we were treated to gorgeous vistas back into the deep valley we came down yesterday. We stopped for an extended break to enjoy the view and admire the sculpture celebrating winners of this leg of the Tour de France over the years. The climb continued, the signage was great so if our bodies didn't tell us the inclines were more intense, well we could read about it as we inched our way upwards. 17.5% was a challenge but we managed and before long, arrived, at the Col du Portillon, and then it was a cold downhill in the shade into France. We put on our layers and cruised first into Saint-Mamet, then Mautauban-de-Luchon on our way to Bagneres-de-Luchon. It's a classic spa resort in the Pyrenees, dedicated to fitness, well-being and sport, and might I add, it is very cute. It's hard to believe that by crossing a border, the look of a town can change so much. We are back into a world of white stone buildings, balconies with wrought iron railings, flower beds and French patisseries!

Arriving at 2pm, we were looking forward to a long lunch waiting for the 4pm check-in time at the apartment we booked. Then was the the next indication that we were no longer in Spain: all the restaurants had finished offering lunch service. What! In Spain, they wouldn't start serving lunch until after 1:30 in most places. Starving, we found a creperie and had delicious crepes and coffees. I feel that since this paragraph is about food, I'd be remiss if I didn't add that our supper last night was the best meal in Spain this trip. Steve started with grilled red peppers stuffed with duck confit swimming in a parmentier sauce. I had a French onion soup, except there were wild mushrooms and eggs added. This was followed by Steve's wild boar and my panko crusted sturgeon, and lastly chocolate and cheese cakes. Yum! We were well-fortified for this morning's climb.

With time still before check-in, we stocked up on groceries and then settled into our new abode. The forecast says rain for the next several days and these cols are cold enough on sunny days I dread to imagine riding them in the rain. Besides, the view is dull in the clouds, and Luchon looks like a delightful place to be stuck.

At the start of the Portilhon climb. 5.7% doesn’t look too difficult.

Half way up and looking back down to Bossost

Looking up the valley where we rode yesterday from Vielha

Monument to the Spanish cyclists in the Tour de France. This pass was last on the route in 2018

What’s this, another sign showing a steeper climb! It turns out there is a sign for each section with the pitch and elevation.

Crossing into France. Nothing more than a change in pavement and a small sign with Bienvenue to the region.

Flowers and tidy little bungalows mark a change from Spain

Today's ride: 21 km (13 miles)
Total: 699 km (434 miles)

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David MathersCongratulations Ann and Steve! You two have become quite the mountain goats...well done 🚴
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonCongratulations! It is astonishing how everything can change in only 20 miles, isn’t it?

We had rain in Luchon also, So we didn’t see much but the inside of our room and the restaurants. I was thinking we’d take an OAB to Portillon on our layover day, but staying warm and dry won the day.

Anxious to see which way you go next. You can’t go wrong. Such awesomeness in all directions!
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetFunny how those big climbs look so daunting when you're thinking about it but are doable if you just go at your own pace! As Scott said, you are in a fantastic part of the world for cycling. I want to go back!
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2 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyTo Scott AndersonHeading over the Col de Peyresourde, one of your best cycling days ever. We won't have the weather you had, so I don't think we will be able to do the hike to Lac Oo. Too bad. You guys had an amazing day. Fingers crossed we will get some views.
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2 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyTo Jacquie GaudetEnjoying reading your blog of your solo ride of the Pyrenees. It is helping us in our planning. Wow your Sicily trip looks amazing. Another great ride we will be following.
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2 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyTo David MathersThanks Dave, hopefully we can get back on the bikes tomorrow. We are hoping for better weather to see the mountains!
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo ann and steve maher-wearyI saw you were going that way. Have a wonderful ride. I’d love to see Peyresourd again. I still remember how amazingly green it was.
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2 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyTo Jacquie GaudetHi Jacquie
Just rereading your solo trip of the Pyrenees. You did Hourquette and Tourmalet in one day! Wow and carrying camping gear! Super impressed with your abilities. We did Hourquette today, hoping to do Tourmalet tomorrow. It is a little colder than when you did it but we are supposed to have sun tomorrow. Love the look of your Sicily trip!
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetTo ann and steve maher-wearyI remember having a nice menu du jour lunch before tackling Tourmalet, plus a nice fellow topped up my water. Not sure I’d do it all in one day now, but who knows?
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2 years ago