Socoa to San Sebastien

July 19, 2016

Just too hot!

Either the heat or the wind kept me from getting a decent night's sleep. Once again I got up early to be on the road soon after 7, but this time my tent wasn't dew-soaked.

The first few kilometres along the Corniche Basque was beautiful, but challenging in the variable wind. I was relieved to move into the bike lane that started a few kilometres before Hendaye. Even though the concrete surface was very rough, there was now space between me as I wobbled in the wind and passing traffic.

Again, but with the road and the walking path beside the road. This is another Camino de Santiago.

Hendaye has an incredible beach, and for me, a nicer vibe than St-Jean-de-Luz. I bought a melon and some bread to go with the jar of jam I'd acquired yesterday and ate on the beach. Even so early in the morning, it was 27C and people were swimming.

The beach at Hendaye at 8 in the morning. It's already warm enough to swim.

The beach at Hendaye looking east. It's full daylight but the camera is pointing towards the sun.

Bike racks between the beach bike lane and the beach, Hendaye, I like the design though I didn't try using one.

Leaving Hendaye was tricky. You have to go inland (south) quite a long way, or so it seems, to get to the bridge that leads across the estuary to Spain. Then much of the wayfinding signage seems to disappear! Somehow, with many stops and not too many wrong turns, I made it through Hondarribia and up to Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. I thought this might be the top, but it wasn't. There was much more climbing to get to Alto de Jaizkibel, but then followed a nice descent all the way to Lezo. Near the bottom, I saw two young longboarders walking up, the first I've seen on this trip. Later, in San Sebastián, I saw more young people with skateboards and longboards, though not as many as in Vancouver.

Looking back at the road from Alto del Jaizkibel.

It seemed like a bigger climb than that. The high temperatures, I guess.

View from Alto del Jaizkibel looking back toward the estuary between Hendaye and Hondarribia.

It was a long way through urban sprawl to the centre of San Sebastián. On my way in I decided that this would be a place to stay in town if possible, but when I finally found the tourist office, they were the least helpful I've ever encountered. They provided a list of accommodation, with no indications of price, and suggested that I call them myself or go around and ask. Their wifi did not work and they told me to go to the McDonald's down the block. I actually went in and bought a cold drink and then discovered I couldn't access their wifi either. When I went back to the tourist office, I was told it didn't work with Apple devices and I should try the one of the Internet cafés. I rather wonder if the San Sebastián tourist office is interested in helping people enjoy the city or only in selling tours and souvenirs. A real contrast to those in France, all of which were friendly and helpful.

After I found an Internet café, I used Booking.com to find a place to stay. Dormitory beds were around 25€ but I decided to get a room at a pension in the old town for 60€. The reviews were mixed, but not too bad. My review, if I do one, won't be good. My room had no window and although I didn't get any street noise, some of the other guests weren't particularly quiet. There were two shared bathrooms for the four or so rooms, which is fine, but the towels were shared too. And the young Australian couple I met, not the noisy ones, had booked through some hostel site, which had mentioned a self-catering option. I wouldn't call a small fridge in the tiny common room, along with some paper plates and plastic cutlery, "self-catering." It did, however, have the best wifi I've encountered on this trip.

After my shower, I needed to eat. I'd missed lunch and since it was now 4:00, I was hungry and not interested in waiting until the Spanish dinner hour. So I decided to have a beer and tapas. I chose a place in the Plaza de la Constitution, probably not the best choice, but the wind made it entertaining. The plaza has bars and restaurants on three of its four sides, and as the swirling gusts of wind came through, bid umbrellas were toppling, taking tables and glassware with them. Waiters were running to catch umbrellas, put them upright, and collapse them. Conveniently, the corner I was in was not badly affected. Umbrellas shook, but didn't topple.

When I explained to the waitress what I wanted, pointing to items on the menu, she took me inside and told me to choose from an array of cold tapas. I took 4 since I'd seen the price for 4 on the menu, she brought me my beer, and I thought I was set. But no, she then brought out some warm tapas. I think they might have been what I ordered, though I thought I'd selected from the list of cold items. In Amy case, I stuffed myself and the bill was almost 20€, of which the beer was 3€. Ah well, an experience.

Façade, Plaza de la Constitution. Three sides of the square were like this, with each window numbered.

I walked around the old town for a who,e, but it was still too hot to walk the length of the beach. I returned to the pension and updated this journal until I realized it was getting late. I packed up, ready for an early escape from this city I wasn't enjoying.

The church seen at the end of this street was actually quite large!

Now this is a tapas bar. I should have eaten here, maybe, though I would have needed to eat at a stand-up table in the street.

In St-Jean-Pied-de-Port I saw an advertisement for buses along the Camino de Santiago, but from here you can sail and get your stamps! Seems like cheating. I thought the whole point was to walk. At least cyclists are travelling under their own power.

Interesting façade, San Sebastian, just around the corner from the previous photo.

Distance 45 km; ascent 674 m; descent 723 m

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Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 1,268 km (787 miles)

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