Barcelona on foot - Pyrenees Solo 2016 - CycleBlaze

June 28, 2016

Barcelona on foot

I slept like a log. I woke to a single sharp dog bark, but it wasn't my dog. Another bark, then I heard the street door open and close and went back to sleep to wake again at 9:15.

At breakfast there was a couple from Victoria BC, almost neighbours. They are spending a few days in Barcelona, staying in one of the apartments operated by the same fellows who run BarcelonaBB, and the man helped me finish assembling my bike by holding the front derailleur in place while I connected the cable.

I wasn't sure what to expect for breakfast, but there was orange juice and coffee (made by the cup on order), omelettes (plain,but freshly made to order) and a selection of fruit, salamis, cheeses, bread, tiny croissants, butter, and jam. I stuffed myself. I'll blame my hunger on the 9 hours time change.I had asked Kiku about a bike shop since I wanted someone knowledgeable to check whether I'd gotten the fork attached again properly. I hate that I have to take the fork out to get my bike in its case. Headsets make me nervous. The shop was only a few blocks away and seemed to be a Brompton specialist. They also carried Surly and some other brands and the young mechanic spoke English. I said I'd be back later with my bike.

I walked all day, first past Casa Batlló again (I wasn't ready to pay 22.5€ since I expect to be back in Barcelona someday with more time and a museum state of mind. Then through the gothic neighbourhood to the cathedral. I did go in there because it was free, or would have been if I'd worn a t-shirt with sleeves. I had to pay 2€ for a cheap shawl to cover my shoulders. Inside, however, I saw women with bare shoulders and one with very short shorts and wondered how they had snuck past the guard. I was just about to take one last photo when everyone was shooed out. Closing time, 1 p.m.

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There was a guard at the top of the cathedral steps to prevent anyone (female) from entering with too much skin exposed such as bare shoulders or short shorts. There were vendors selling cheap and ugly shawls and I remembered this sort of thing from somewhere... the Vatican? I was asked to remove my hat, not cover my head, so something has changed since I remember my mother covering her hair to go to church when I was small.
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In one chapel, Mary nursing her baby
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In an adjacent chapel, a black Mary and child, Our Lady of Montserrat
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I love gothic architecture.
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Each chapel contained something baroque...
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... or more to my taste
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Somebody's tomb above an altar
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The modern church with video screens at the confessionals
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The modern church with electric votives
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The old church with special seating for ... I don't know. I was brought up Catholic but no church my parents took me to had any of these.
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The organ
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Outside, an operatic busker. I heard her when I was inside and enjoyed the voice.
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I continued through the narrow streets and popped out on the harbour. A salad and a Clara (what they call a radler here) hit the spot. I had heard Kiku telling the Victoria couple about the views from Montjuïc, the big hill overlooking the sea just south of the old town (the gothic neighbourhood). I decided to walk up the hill. I worked up a sweat! At the top, there is Castell de Montjuïc, one of Barcelona's old defences. There's been something there for over a thousand years, starting with a signal tower to warn of approaching ships. The fortification was originally built to defend against land attacks, but has been much modified over the centuries. Whether it was worth the 5€ admission to me, I'm not sure. The views were pretty good from outside the fort.

The courtyard of what was once the residence of an official. It's now open to the public and had a free exhibit room. "A trip down the Nile" was a display of papyrus and related objects. Interesting to me, as I'd never seen anything papyrus before.
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The exposed remains of the old Roman wall now provides homes for pigeons
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Streets in the old town (the gothic neighbourhood) were busy with tourists and shoppers
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Or quiet. One tiny shop refurbished and sold classic bikes (but I didn't get a picture).
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The small-boat harbour
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Palm tree. We Canadians don't have these at home. I know there are some in Canada, coddled in gardens, but not like this.
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Christopher Columbus dominates the waterfront
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Legacy of 1992
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No wonder Columbus dominates. The monument is Large.
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The commercial port from the top of Montjuïc
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I didn't get a good photo of the panoramic view from Castell de Montjuïc but this is interesting. See the next photo
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Scott AndersonThat is interesting. I’ve never heard this story, or of Méchain either that I can recall.
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4 years ago
Jacquie GaudetI hadn't either and just looked up Méchain. He lived in very interesting and challenging times! https://mathshistory.st-andrews.ac.uk/Biographies/Mechain/
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4 years ago

It took me some time and a few wrong turns to find my way back to the B&B but I did manage to go by Gaudi's La Pedrera. It's only 5 blocks from the B&B, even closer than Casa Battló!

La Pedrera
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There's commerce in the ground floor. I expect the rent is high!
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And for contrast, different Barcelona architecture
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It was almost 7 by the time I got back and the bike shop would close at 8. I got there and had to wait a bit. There were three customers ahead of me, all with Bromptons. Bikes seem second in popularity behind scooters in Barcelona, ahead of private cars, at least in the city centre.

Headset was determined to be okay, while the front derailleur cable was pulled out somewhere (it didn't work when I tested the shifters and brakes on the way to the shop). The cable was put in place and he even pumped up my tires since I hadn't achieved the correct pressure last night. The service was worth the 5€ he charged me. Espaibici at Bruc 63, Barcelona.

With the necessary taken care of, it was time for a shower and a visit to the exterior of Sagrada Familia. Still actively under construction, there will be more completed when I return to Barcelona someday in the future.

First view of Sagrada Familia, complete with construction cranes. I took this photo over the gate of an off-leash dog park.
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Closer...
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Scott AndersonThis project has come a long way since we first saw it in 1997. It was pretty skeletal then and fascinating to see from the inside: https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/lisbon1997/to-barcelona/#1702_6b1d79a885e083329e756abbd35072f5
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4 years ago
Jacquie GaudetAstounding to think that the project started in 1882! I just looked on the sagradafamilia.org website which says it's expected to be completed in 2026.

As I was going through this journal to republish it on cycleblaze, I was thinking I'd love to do the trip again. Maybe 2026 or 2027?
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4 years ago
It's really big!
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To the left, it's almost like a different building.
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To the right, towers of fruit. I took this picture from the opposite side of the building, where it seemed to be more finished.
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Construction continues. I saw a couple of these trucks removing construction waste.
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For dinner, I went to a fixed menu place. The food kept coming! It was like eating out in the US! I better get on my bike soon.

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