Arreau to Luz-St-Sauveur

July 14, 2016

Bastille Day: Hourquette d'Ancizan and Col du Tourmalet

I did it! I wasn't sure about tackling two big cols in one day, but with a long day, not too hot (quite cool, in fact) and a mid-day break for a good lunch, I made it.

Luckily I'd bought some yogurt yesterday because there wasn't much in the way of breakfast in Arreau. There was a fairly big market, but mostly cheese (cheese seems to be THE product of the Pyrenees), fruit and vegetables, meat products, and crafts. No baked goods until I found a fellow unpacking some gâteaux de Pyrenees, which I'd seen elsewhere but hadn't yet tried because they are rather large for one person and a bit pricy at 5 or 6€ each. He, however, had small ones, still expensive in my mind at 2.50, but I bought one anyway. Still on a quest for coffee, I packed it away and headed down the road toward the tunnel to Spain.

I turned off at the village of Ancizan since the sign also indicated Hourquette d'Ancizan. Still no café so I sat on the steps of the church near the tiny Mairie and ate my little gâteau. Rather dry, but filling. I visited the public WC (a rare thing in France, especially in such a tiny village), filled my bottles at the public fountain since I'd forgotten to do so at the campground, and looked for signs indicating which way to go.

Ancizan. The big building is the church and the route to Hourquette d'Ancizan is to the left in from of the church.

The route wasn't well-marked at all. The signs were tiny, impossible to see if one were in a car, but then, in a car, heading off up a steep hill in the wrong direction isn't quite so painful. When I found the official start of climb sign, I knew I had come the right way, though it still was marked D 30 and not D 113. Then there was a turn and the D 113 began.

Off I went, and at first the narrow road was quiet. Then it was no longer, as the French were out enjoying their jour de fête. It was mostly cars and a farmer in a tractor pulling a trailer, until the cyclists started passing me. I think it must have been a supported group ride since many of the cyclists were wearing matching neon green jerseys and there was a van with the same name, Le Pyrenean. One fellow had Le Pyrenean shorts too but they were black and orange and didn't go particularly well with his neon green jersey (this year's colour, I presume).

Looking back down at the valley of the Neste. The D 929 follows it on its way to Spain (via a tunnel).

After all of them had gone by, a smaller group on mountain bikes passed, all of them in matching kit, including a rather heavy man on an e-mountain bike, whom I caught up to when he was taking a rest! Of course, when I passed him, he got back on and passed me again.

At the top there was a crowd. Cyclists and their supporters, hikers, sightseers, one man with a camera equipped with a big telephoto and hoping, I suspect, to get a good shot of the raptors circling overhead. After the obligatory photo, I bundled up and started down. Surprise! After descending into the high valley, the road climbs out again on the other side. It wasn't enough of a climb to warm up, so the layers stayed on and then the real descent began.

The view ahead from the summit, with a few more parked cars. Lots of people here on Bastille Day.

High grazing. A farmer in a tractor, pulling a trailer, passed me several times as he made trips up and down the road. I suspect these are his as I saw him turning into an access road near here.

Just before joining the D 918 that had crossed Col d'Aspin, there was a large flat area with many camping cars set up. It would be a nice base for hiking or mountain biking. For road cyclists, it would be possible to do a circuit of Col d'Aspin and Hourquette d'Ancizan, though I'd choose Arreau as my base. Its services might be limited, but they exceed those of the smaller villages I think.

I continued westward and somewhat downward to Sainte Marie de Campan. I had decided to have lunch there if I could and then decide whether to tackle the Tourmalet or stay over and do it in the morning. Right on the D 918 was the Hôtel les Deux Cols. When I peeked in to see if it were open, I was told "in 10 minutes" and that I should put my bike around the side. I guess I made a lucky choice because within about 10 minutes of opening, the good-sized restaurant was getting full. I chose the fixed menu, of course, with soup to start, followed by aiguillettes de canard with frites and then crème Catalane for dessert. An espresso too, and then, refuelled, I decided to continue.

The first sign for Col du Tourmalet was misleading (to me, anyway). It said the distance was 16.9 km and the average grade was 4.5%. I can do that, I thought. It sure is easier from the east! My brain must still have been tired: the noted slope refers to the coming kilometre and the next kilometre might be different. Sure enough, the rest of the kilometres were 7% or more.

Okay, I can do 16.9 km at 4.5%. It isn't clear that the 4.5% refers just to the next kilometre! I found out the hard way...

Statue of Eugène Christophe. I'd forgotten the story about a Tour de France racer repairing his own forks in a blacksmith shop (it was Christophe in Saint Marie de Campan) but I never connected that with the name "Christophe" on the pedal straps I used to use.

I noticed one rider who seemed to have a support vehicle that kept stopping. At about 8 km to go, he passed me again, having just stopped by two vehicles pulled off to the side, and asked if I needed water. If I did, his father could give me some. I accepted since I'd forgotten to top up at my lunch stop, and went over to the vehicles. One was driven by an older man, but by the other were two young guys (the younger maybe 10, the elder maybe 16) and 16-year-old filled my bottle. The younger one was getting ready to have a turn to ride; I guess they had to take turns. Soon enough, they passed me with a wave.

At about 5 km to go was the ski village of La Mongie. Was it ever busy! No skiing, of course, because the snow was long gone, but there was hiking, mountain biking, and other activities. I just used the WC, ate the rest of my ginger cake, and carried on.

It was slow going and I stopped for many breathers. The signs every kilometre gave the slope at around 8%. It didn't look steep, but it sure felt steep!

I thought I'd better take this photo before the clouds obscured it again! Nearing the top of Col du Tourmalet

At the top I did my photos and had another espresso in the little café. Then I went to the shop on the other side of the road and bought a souvenir jersey. The first non-consumable I've bought on this trip, not counting that silly shawl I had to buy in Barcelona. Then it was down again, all the way to Luz-St-Sauveur.

...but it isn't in this one someone took for me.

Looking down the west side. I'd expected TdF encouragement on the road, but there wasn't a lot. Lots of "NON à l'ours" stencils, though. There seems to be a large "vocal" disagreement with reintroduction of bears to the Pyrenees.

Riders approaching from the west. The notes on the pavement aren't for TdF pros, as far as I can tell.

I had hoped to get a chambre d'hôte or hotel here since my tent was quite wet from the morning's heavy dew, but everything reasonably-priced was full. The tourist office suggested a gîte. I'm not sure what the term means but in this case it was the youth hostel. Only dorm beds available, but the same management runs the adjacent campsite, La Cascade. Since I thought there might be enough sun to dry my tent and the campground receptionist said she'd find me a place since I was on a bike (and she's also a cyclist and cycle-tourer, I chose to camp rather than take my chances with potential party-oriented roommates in a dorm.

By the time I was ready to search for a restaurant for dinner, it was past 8! No waiting this time for places to open. I splurged on a higher-quality place, entrée plus plat for 20€, did without dessert and made a glass of wine last. The salad was delicious, the best salad with cheese I've had yet. I'd hoped to have the local "mouton des Pyrenees" as my main course (plat) but there was no more. Steak-frites then. For the first time there was a little dish of seasoned mayo for the frites, which came in a tiny fryer basket on my plate. I ate it all plus a couple of slices of very good bread.

Eglise des TempliersFrom Wikipedia: "L'église saint-André a été construite aux xiie et xiiie siècles. Au xive siècle, les Hospitaliers de Saint-Jean de Jérusalem ont construit des remparts autour de l’église pour protéger les habitants de Luz des attaques des bandits espagnols appelés les « miquelets »"

Distance 66 km; ascent 2239 m; descent 2211 m

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Today's ride: 66 km (41 miles)
Total: 955 km (593 miles)

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